how can i build the skeleton of the plane?

[maxmavs]

hello papermodelers, greetings from Queretaro, Mexico!!!

does any body can help me on the skeletons to build a plane, i got a lot of models that i cant start, because i dont know how to made the skeleton. Any one post a tutorial before?? thank you so much

[GreMir]

I don't think there is a tutorial for what you need, but I would suggest looking at build reports of planes here at the forum to get an idea how the model goes together.

[Vermin_King]

Build threads should help. Is there a specific model you are planning to start first?

[maxmavs]

i got the mig-3 from ModelArt, and i got one page that i cant figure out how to use. in this page there are a lot of circles and some stripes, i suppose that those parts go inside the plane.

[maxmavs]

any one can tell how to attach an image to this post?? (i guess my mind-software isnt updated to the POST) :(

[HMCS]

a member on this forum by the name of mgolovanov has built this one,.. he has a blog on it,.. I am sure if you contact him he can share with you

here are some others
check out these build threads:
MiG-3 (1:32 paper model by ModelArt) - Paper Modelers Gallery

• Afficher le sujet - Mig-3 ARR du cpt. "Bazu" Cantacuzino

me.ru gallery :: MiG-3

[GreMir]

Originally Posted by maxmavs

i got the mig-3 from ModelArt, and i got one page that i cant figure out how to use. in this page there are a lot of circles and some stripes, i suppose that those parts go inside the plane.

The "circles" are formers that you should laminate to heavy card, usually 0.7-1mm. The "strips" are connectors that will allow you to join skin segments to each other.
Take a look here GeeBee R1 by Rafal Ciesielski - Part 1 at post #32. It's a different aircraft, but the principle is the same.

If your model is in printed format, then I would suggest downloading GeeBee from my site (see signature) and practicing on it. If you have it in electronic format then fire away with Mig-3 - you can always re-print the page if anything goes wrong

[maxmavs]

Thank you Gremir (Michael) im going to study that Geebee and do it to practice. I only had build some Fiddlers green (mig-15, WW2 mustang, p-38) and the Ojimak models, but no one of those had the FORMERS and CONNECTORS. Now I know what those things are. In any of the instructions of the models are mentioned, they only put the number but they dont say how to assembly. Thanks again from the other Michael (Miguel Angel-Maxmavs-)

[GreMir]

Glad to be of help.
Fiddler's Green models are good introduction to the hobby and to get you "hooked"
Since you are ready to try something more challenging, there is whole bunch of free models available as PDF files to experiment and study on - search the forum or check "Downloads" section. I'm sure you will be able to find something of interest.
Biggest benefit of electronic format is of course the fact that you don't have to worry if anything goes wrong - you just reprint the damaged parts and start again

[Bionic Modeler]

Fiddler's models are formerless designs in general I think their Gigante is the only one with formers. They work pretty well for the simpler designs they offer. I have built several. As was said they get you hooked so you can move on to more difficult models like you have. You might want to scan you parts first and practice before assembling the actual model. your first try applying the skin can be frustrating and you could easily ruin your parts. You just about get the hang of it by the time you get to the last piece. That is why I practice first. Make sure you cut formers on or just inside the line to allow your skin to go all the way around. Tolerances are very close on a well designed model. Better a little left over than too short you can always trim a bit off for a perfect fit. If your model has a former to former design, that is ther is a former for each adjoing part of the fuselage then tack them together with a small spot of glue and then sand them so they are a perfect match to each other. If the fueselage tapers to one end then sand a slight taper to allow the skin to properly follow the slope. Then separate them, then when you glue them back together they will match perfectly. Also cut a hole in the formers so you can use a stick to press into place from the opposite end. Glue the skin together at the designed point, stand on end, then gently press the former into place with a stick until the former and the skin are flush against the table all the way around. At this pint you should have both formers in place for that section and make sure that the center points line up on the former and the skin. Then glue the fuselage formers together for that section and repeat til you get to the end.

These are just a few suggestions of methods I use. There are others you migh like better but it will get you started in the right direction unitl you figure what works best for you.

Hope this helps