#11
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Please continue keeping it detailed on the how-I-do-it sections. That is the really interesting part. - L.
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#12
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Quote:
I know you are already aware of this because your thread posts are the perfect example of the more elaborate style. The comment was intended for those that get anxious to see the next installment and want it now;-) It's coming................... New post is coming soon and thanks for your interest. SFX |
#13
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How to make white decals
One of the common problems in printing on colored paper, metallic or otherwise, is how retain the "WHITE" color that is typical of aircraft markings. For example, the US star and bar that is so common in the aircraft many of us build.
The following may not be the most elagant solution to the problem of creating decals with white in the design, but I think that in this case it worked. I'll let you be the judge... Using Photoshop I opened the pages with the markings I wanted to "Make" decals with white in their design. I selected all the individual pieces and cut and pasted them onto one page. I printed this single page on a good quality bright white bond/typing paper at the same scale that the metallic sheet was printed at. Check the scale fit, just to be sure and once satisfied, spray the printed side of the 'decal' sheet with Krylon Brand Crystal Clear Satin. Your welcome to use whatever brand that works best for you. Allow to dry for 30 minutes or so before the next step. The star and bar printed on white bond compared to the silver metallic. Carefully cut out the 'decal' with a sharp blade. Turn it face down and Using low tack spray adhesive and LIGHTLY spray the back. PLEASE NOTE: The image above shows me spraying on my cutting board!!#%* This was a series of demo pictures only!! DO NOT spray adhesive on your cutting board......I don't. Work slowly, but not too slowly, lift the decal with a pair of tweezers, and carefully position onto the metallic sheet with the original star and bar to be replace. Once aligned, start on one side and carefully press down one corner and walk your finger across the piece making sure not to trap any air pockets. , Using a roller or a heavy book or whatever you have, carefully press the 'decal into place. Comparison of original print on metallic paper and replaced bond paper decal. IMPORTANT------Allow the decals to dry for a good day before starting to cut out and shape the parts. You'll be redoing this step otherwise!! That's it, nothing magic or special about it....Just be as careful as you can when cutting the decal from the white bond paper. Also, make sure that the decal is well positioned when setting it over the original. If you have to pull it off, it will probably leave a mark where it was removed from. Any questions, please ask so I can better learn what to include or leave out of these tutorial/builds. Swampfox |
#14
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Fuselage construction
If you want a simple fuselage to learn how to shape cylinders, cones, and truncated cones this is it. It consists of 13 sections- one true cylinder and 12 conic sections. They are all very tight fits and require that attenion be paid during construction. I always do lots of measuring and dry fits to make sure that the parts align and fit correctly. No major problems cropped up and only a couple of minor alterations in the diameter of some the tubes were necessary for a very good fit.
This kit is designed with no fuselage or wing formers, because it's a simple cylinder fuselage none are really needed....... EXCEPT for the fact that the wingspan is 30 inches at 1:48 and looked like it could use a few corrugated cardboard formers placed at stress points along the fuselage.... The points where the wings met the fuselage were some of the places were I installed the circular disk formers. These images are presented in order of construction. The fuselage pieces cutout and laid out in order from nose to tail. , (Note that the nose cone is already built in this picture, I'll cover that in the next post.) I try to find plastic or glass bottles with a round cross-section that the paper part will fit around as close as possible. In this case I curl the piece on a mouse-pad and then wrap it around an Aleen's Glue plastic bottle. This gives me a perfect shape to build the rest of the fuselage onto. , I build all the fuselage components. , Adding bulkheads where ever I think useful and/or necessary. dry fitting as I go along. The canopy went together, no problems. All the completed sub components of the fuselage, glued together and set aside to dry well. I'm finding that metallic paper is a little difficult to photograph well with my setup. Onward to the nose cone......... SFX |
#15
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Thanks for the extra detail here. I've been doing this hobby for a few years now, and it has only been a recent event that I've been able to build a plane that doesn't look like (insert favorite ugliness here). I owe it to tips I pick up from the build reports like this one. Thanks
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#16
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That 'decal' method was very good. And its really good to see some good, careful, slow, methodical work. Why else do we do this, if not to enjoy the pleasure of being careful, slow, and methodical?
- L. |
#17
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Quote:
Inquiring minds (well, mine anyway) want to know, because the integral tabs make assembly a lot easier. Les (The Voice of Authority) |
#18
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That is a very good question. I know how I've been doing it, but that isn't the way it is done here (apparently)
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A fine is a tax when you do wrong. A tax is a fine when you do well. |
#19
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To answer your questions about how to glue pieces together using glue tabs and not having the steps show........
I never even thought about that, I am trying to get an explanation together that will be easy to understand...... the words aren't coming to me as easy as I'd hoped. Once I started to try and put my steps into words I realized that there is more to it than I'd ever considered.....not hard or complex, just a bunch of little things that I do to achieve the appearence of no steps. (Sometimes it is successful, sometimes not) I will try to take some pictures to help explain or maybe the words will finally fall into place. Give me a little time and I will do my best to answer your question. Swampfox |
#20
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The way I've been doing it is take two pieces of card the same thickness as the model. I then place the model segment on top of one piece of the cardstock with the tab extending past the bottom piece. Using the second piece of card, I line it up carefully with the tab edge and press down. This leaves the tab 'recessed' so that the model pieces line up. It doesn't appear that you do it with this method.
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A fine is a tax when you do wrong. A tax is a fine when you do well. |
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