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  #11  
Old 10-19-2012, 01:03 PM
Leif Ohlsson's Avatar
Leif Ohlsson Leif Ohlsson is offline
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Please continue keeping it detailed on the how-I-do-it sections. That is the really interesting part. - L.
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  #12  
Old 10-20-2012, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leif Ohlsson View Post
Please continue keeping it detailed on the how-I-do-it sections. That is the really interesting part. - L.
Hi Leif, I plan on trying to do that, but please keep in mind, that takes a longer time to get those things ready for posting, than the usual slam dunk post.

I know you are already aware of this because your thread posts are the perfect example of the more elaborate style. The comment was intended for those that get anxious to see the next installment and want it now;-)

It's coming...................

New post is coming soon and thanks for your interest.

SFX
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  #13  
Old 10-20-2012, 08:51 AM
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How to make white decals

One of the common problems in printing on colored paper, metallic or otherwise, is how retain the "WHITE" color that is typical of aircraft markings. For example, the US star and bar that is so common in the aircraft many of us build.

The following may not be the most elagant solution to the problem of creating decals with white in the design, but I think that in this case it worked. I'll let you be the judge...

Using Photoshop I opened the pages with the markings I wanted to "Make" decals with white in their design. I selected all the individual pieces and cut and pasted them onto one page. I printed this single page on a good quality bright white bond/typing paper at the same scale that the metallic sheet was printed at. Check the scale fit, just to be sure and once satisfied, spray the printed side of the 'decal' sheet with Krylon Brand Crystal Clear Satin.
WB-57F Oddball-1:48 build-1-640.jpg
Your welcome to use whatever brand that works best for you. Allow to dry for 30 minutes or so before the next step.

The star and bar printed on white bond compared to the silver metallic.
WB-57F Oddball-1:48 build-2-640.jpg

Carefully cut out the 'decal' with a sharp blade.
WB-57F Oddball-1:48 build-2a-carefully-cut-outs-b-640.jpg

Turn it face down and
WB-57F Oddball-1:48 build-2b-printed-side-down-640.jpg

Using low tack spray adhesive
WB-57F Oddball-1:48 build-2bb-640.jpg

and LIGHTLY spray the back.
WB-57F Oddball-1:48 build-2c-spray-back-lightly-640.jpg
PLEASE NOTE: The image above shows me spraying on my cutting board!!#%*
This was a series of demo pictures only!! DO NOT spray adhesive on your cutting board......I don't.

Work slowly, but not too slowly, lift the decal with a pair of tweezers,
WB-57F Oddball-1:48 build-2d-lift-carefully-640.jpg

and carefully position onto the metallic sheet with the original star and bar to be replace.
WB-57F Oddball-1:48 build-3d-carefully-position-master-part-640.jpg

Once aligned, start on one side and carefully press down one corner and
walk your finger across the piece making sure not to trap any air pockets.
WB-57F Oddball-1:48 build-4d-lay-position-640.jpg,WB-57F Oddball-1:48 build-5d-640.jpg

Using a roller or a heavy book or whatever you have, carefully press the 'decal into place.
WB-57F Oddball-1:48 build-6d-640.jpg

Comparison of original print on metallic paper and replaced bond paper decal.
WB-57F Oddball-1:48 build-7-640.jpg

IMPORTANT------Allow the decals to dry for a good day before starting to cut out and shape the parts.
You'll be redoing this step otherwise!!

That's it, nothing magic or special about it....Just be as careful as you can
when cutting the decal from the white bond paper. Also, make sure that
the decal is well positioned when setting it over the original. If you have
to pull it off, it will probably leave a mark where it was removed from.

Any questions, please ask so I can better learn what to include or leave out of these tutorial/builds.

Swampfox
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  #14  
Old 10-24-2012, 03:55 PM
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Fuselage construction

If you want a simple fuselage to learn how to shape cylinders, cones, and truncated cones this is it. It consists of 13 sections- one true cylinder and 12 conic sections. They are all very tight fits and require that attenion be paid during construction. I always do lots of measuring and dry fits to make sure that the parts align and fit correctly. No major problems cropped up and only a couple of minor alterations in the diameter of some the tubes were necessary for a very good fit.

This kit is designed with no fuselage or wing formers, because it's a simple cylinder fuselage none are really needed....... EXCEPT for the fact that the wingspan is 30 inches at 1:48 and looked like it could use a few corrugated cardboard formers placed at stress points along the fuselage.... The points where the wings met the fuselage were some of the places were I installed the circular disk formers.

These images are presented in order of construction.

The fuselage pieces cutout and laid out in order from nose to tail.
WB-57F Oddball-1:48 build-01-640.jpg, WB-57F Oddball-1:48 build-02-640.jpg
(Note that the nose cone is already built in this picture, I'll cover that in the next post.)

I try to find plastic or glass bottles with a round cross-section that the paper part will fit around as close as possible. In this case I curl the piece on a mouse-pad and then wrap it around an Aleen's Glue plastic bottle. This gives me a perfect shape to build the rest of the fuselage onto.
WB-57F Oddball-1:48 build-04-640.jpg, WB-57F Oddball-1:48 build-03-640.jpg

I build all the fuselage components.
WB-57F Oddball-1:48 build-05-640.jpg, WB-57F Oddball-1:48 build-06-640.jpg

Adding bulkheads where ever I think useful and/or necessary.
WB-57F Oddball-1:48 build-07-fuselage-bulkhead-section-640.jpg

dry fitting as I go along.
WB-57F Oddball-1:48 build-08-parts-640.jpg

The canopy went together, no problems.
WB-57F Oddball-1:48 build-09-640.jpg

All the completed sub components of the fuselage,
WB-57F Oddball-1:48 build-10-major-fuselage-parts-640.jpg

glued together and set aside to dry well.
WB-57F Oddball-1:48 build-11-complete-640.jpg

I'm finding that metallic paper is a little difficult to
photograph well with my setup.

Onward to the nose cone.........
SFX
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  #15  
Old 10-24-2012, 04:39 PM
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Thanks for the extra detail here. I've been doing this hobby for a few years now, and it has only been a recent event that I've been able to build a plane that doesn't look like (insert favorite ugliness here). I owe it to tips I pick up from the build reports like this one. Thanks
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  #16  
Old 10-24-2012, 05:45 PM
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Leif Ohlsson Leif Ohlsson is offline
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That 'decal' method was very good. And its really good to see some good, careful, slow, methodical work. Why else do we do this, if not to enjoy the pleasure of being careful, slow, and methodical?

- L.
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  #17  
Old 10-25-2012, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swampfox View Post

glued together and set aside to dry well.
Attachment 144918
OK, I'm still puzzled how you and others retain the integral fuselage tabs but manage to avoid any apparent steps between the fuselage sections. Am I missing something? Am I trying to solve a problem that doesn't really exist (I've only tried two aircraft card models)?

Inquiring minds (well, mine anyway) want to know, because the integral tabs make assembly a lot easier.

Les (The Voice of Authority)
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  #18  
Old 10-25-2012, 01:05 PM
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That is a very good question. I know how I've been doing it, but that isn't the way it is done here (apparently)
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  #19  
Old 10-25-2012, 01:57 PM
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Swampfox Swampfox is offline
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To answer your questions about how to glue pieces together using glue tabs and not having the steps show........

I never even thought about that, I am trying to get an explanation together that will be easy to understand...... the words aren't coming to me as easy as I'd hoped.

Once I started to try and put my steps into words I realized that there is more to it than I'd ever considered.....not hard or complex, just a bunch of little things that I do to achieve the appearence of no steps. (Sometimes it is successful, sometimes not)

I will try to take some pictures to help explain or maybe the words will finally fall into place.

Give me a little time and I will do my best to answer your question.

Swampfox
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  #20  
Old 10-25-2012, 03:01 PM
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The way I've been doing it is take two pieces of card the same thickness as the model. I then place the model segment on top of one piece of the cardstock with the tab extending past the bottom piece. Using the second piece of card, I line it up carefully with the tab edge and press down. This leaves the tab 'recessed' so that the model pieces line up. It doesn't appear that you do it with this method.
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