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  #21  
Old 10-25-2012, 04:19 PM
Leif Ohlsson's Avatar
Leif Ohlsson Leif Ohlsson is offline
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Umtutsut - in all its directness that is a most interesting and pertinent question. I can well understand that Swampfox is retiring for the moment to ponder how to best explain his technique. The fuselage looks unbelievably smooth considering, as you say, that separate gluestrips are NOT used.

Vermin, your method sounds very good. I seem to remember some similar method by another member (now, if I could only remember WHO!!!), using pieces of thin metal. It will be interesting to compare with what Swampfox comes up with.

It is often the simplest questions that are the most important. I wouldn't have posed this question, yet I am in dire need of learning how to accomplish something as smooth as Swampfox. I know my attempt with the Fi-1 sailplane was a failure in that respect (not the design, but my execution of it). And that was despite using separare gluestrips.

So I really need to learn from those who can do this as beautifully as demonstrated in this build.

- L.
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  #22  
Old 10-25-2012, 07:09 PM
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Don Boose Don Boose is offline
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Let me echo Leif by adding my thanks for your well-thought-out, well-crafted explanations (and excellent images), Swampfox.
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  #23  
Old 10-27-2012, 07:52 AM
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Swampfox Swampfox is offline
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Thanks to all of you for the questions and the compliments. I never know if anyone is even watching these build threads and sometimes I wonder if there is any interest.

I'm not ignoring the questions about the way I build using tabs instead of the ring tabs that many use. I am still working on that, but will resume this WB-57F build and address the tabs question later on.

I'm still trying to figure out what kind of answer your all looking for and need some time to think out my process.

Thanks for your patience.

SFX
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  #24  
Old 10-27-2012, 08:17 AM
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Swampfox Swampfox is offline
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Nose Cone construction

Because this nose was designed with Petals it is necessary to be very precice when cutting out the part. I shape the piece by rolling on a mouse pad and then glue the tab allowing the shape to dry before starting shaping of the petals.
WB-57F Oddball-1:48 build-01-640.jpgWB-57F Oddball-1:48 build-02-640.jpgWB-57F Oddball-1:48 build-03-640.jpg


These are wooden tools that I found at a doll making supply shop about 20 years ago. They come in several size sets, small, medium and large heads and have the name "KEMPER TOOLS" printed on them.
WB-57F Oddball-1:48 build-04-doll-eye-formers-640.jpgWB-57F Oddball-1:48 build-004a.jpg
I bought the 2 smaller sets ES1 and ES2, (not having any specific plans for them at the time). As I recall, they are used to shape eye sockets in the heads of clay dolls. I didn't look too far and found them mentioned on this web site: Kemper Dolls - Your Doll Supply Store

Anyway, one day while trying to shape a nose cone for another card model I was looking through my tool stash and came across the dowels again and after some experimenting with them over the years, they finally settled in my cardmodel tool box.

I find the closest size just a touch smaller than what I need and form the nose cone petals around it, SLOWLY and gently pressing the petals over the ball on the end
WB-57F Oddball-1:48 build-05-640.jpgWB-57F Oddball-1:48 build-06-640.jpg

I then begin pressing the nose into a circle template hole that is smaller than the tip of the cone and this helps shape it further.
WB-57F Oddball-1:48 build-07-640.jpgWB-57F Oddball-1:48 build-08-640.jpg

After it begins to hold it's shape I cut out a piece of paper towel about the size that will just fit into the inside tiip of the cone and saturate it in white glue.
WB-57F Oddball-1:48 build-09-640.jpgWB-57F Oddball-1:48 build-010-tissue-disk-nose-640.jpg

and press it in into place using one of the eye socket tools mentioned above. You can just see it at the bottom of the cone in this picture.
WB-57F Oddball-1:48 build-011-tissue-disk-place-2-640.jpg

I continue pressing the outside of the cone petals against the circle template until it is nearly dry and holding its tapered shape.
WB-57F Oddball-1:48 build-012-finished-nose-640.jpg

I let it dry well 12 and find some small weights to glue into the tip/front of the nose
WB-57F Oddball-1:48 build-013-weight-nose-cone-640.jpg

DO NOT GLUE INTO PLACE AT THIS TIME!!!!! Set the nose cone and weights aside to glue in as the LAST Piece in finishing the model??!!

Why? This is a very tail heavy model and it really needs a fair amount of weight up front to keep the nose down. Better to add weight at the end of the build, works well this way....

Lots of words and pictures for such a simple piece.

SFX
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  #25  
Old 10-27-2012, 10:01 AM
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Leif Ohlsson Leif Ohlsson is offline
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Nope. Just the right amount of words and pics for teaching how to accomplish this notoriously difficult task. It is not simple, and it is not self-evident. I'll have to get one of these "ball on a stick" tools, metal or wood. Realized from your instructions that they are indeed most valuable.

Will also remember the "pressing into appropriate hole" method and the "saturate white tissue", plus the "do not glue nose cone with weights in place until the end". Very good advice. Thank you.

Leif
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  #26  
Old 10-27-2012, 10:28 AM
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Don Boose Don Boose is offline
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These techniques have wide applicability.

Kemper doll eye sizers (we have to come up with a better name) ordered.

Don
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  #27  
Old 10-27-2012, 12:59 PM
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Ron0909 Ron0909 is offline
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Swampfox,
that is a brilliant way of demonstrating how to contend with petal closures! I have struggled with them in the past to the point of avoiding any kit that even uses them. Beautiful workmanship I am looking forward to seeing how you take care of that 30" wingspan!

Ron
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  #28  
Old 10-27-2012, 11:51 PM
Karl Karl is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vermin_King View Post
The way I've been doing it is take two pieces of card the same thickness as the model. I then place the model segment on top of one piece of the cardstock with the tab extending past the bottom piece. Using the second piece of card, I line it up carefully with the tab edge and press down. This leaves the tab 'recessed' so that the model pieces line up. It doesn't appear that you do it with this method.
We call that technique "joggling" when we built full sized aircraft.
There are special tools to do it in aluminium.
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  #29  
Old 10-28-2012, 06:50 AM
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Swampfox Swampfox is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leif Ohlsson View Post
Nope. Just the right amount of words and pics for teaching how to accomplish this notoriously difficult task. It is not simple, and it is not self-evident. I'll have to get one of these "ball on a stick" tools, metal or wood. Realized from your instructions that they are indeed most valuable.

Will also remember the "pressing into appropriate hole" method and the "saturate white tissue", plus the "do not glue nose cone with weights in place until the end". Very good advice. Thank you.

Leif
Leif,

Thanks for the support. If you do find a similar "ball on stick"' please let us know by what name it is called.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Boose View Post
These techniques have wide applicability.

Kemper doll eye sizers (we have to come up with a better name) ordered.

Don

Don, I agree about the name. Did you find the Kemper eye sizes for sale somewhere? Please post the link. Thanks


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron0909 View Post
Swampfox,
that is a brilliant way of demonstrating how to contend with petal closures! I have struggled with them in the past to the point of avoiding any kit that even uses them. Beautiful workmanship I am looking forward to seeing how you take care of that 30" wingspan!

Ron
Glad it helped, and yes, that wingspan is tricky.

SFX
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  #30  
Old 10-28-2012, 07:06 AM
Don Boose's Avatar
Don Boose Don Boose is offline
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SFX -

I used the link you provided to Kemper Dolls, then clicked on "Supplies" and then "Tools" on the menu on the left side of the screen.

Here is the "eye sizing tool" screen: KemperDolls: Doll Eye sizers

They take PayPal, but also charge what seems a lot of postage for domestic U.S. delivery ($6.70 postage on a $7.70 order).

But these look like a useful assortment of paper shaping tools.

Don
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