He-51W Laser-cut frames beta build

[ccoyle]

Darwin,

You may remember that some time ago, during the Marek Marathon, I attempted this same model. After three cracks at the fuselage, I gave up. It is one of only two card models I have ever failed to complete for any reason other than loss of interest. I applaud you for having gotten this far -- well done!

[Darwin]

After a full night's sleep and returning to the project with minimal mental cobwebs, I think I see where the problem is...reaffirming my belief that is isn't what you know that gets you into trouble...it's what you know that ain't so the does the dirty to you. Somewhere after the 'I just want to get this SOB done' syndrome set in, I convinced myself that some little black spots on the bottom half of the wing fillet denoted the float strut attachments...and forth I charged. The front float strut is not attached under the wing, it attaches forward of the wing directly to the body...and there is a huge location mark to tell you just where it goes....which would move the strut attachment over one-half inch forward on the plane. The rear strut should attach about an eighth inch further to the rear, and the attachment should be made directly to the fuselage just below the wing fillet. At this point, I'm leaving it as it is, and will hold that info for the day in the future I completely lose my mind and redo the build with the corrected set of frames Ron was kind enough to send me (still waiting for the postman to come through, Ron...the postal dog sleds must be having more difficulty than normal). Erase all I've said about how to attach the float struts to the airplane...the sockets (parts 66...or is that parts 666?) now make sense. However, if I had been lead engineer on the design, I would have chosen to use 1/16-inch diameter brass tubing for the sockets, not rolled paper. And, I would have used brass tubing sockets in the floats as well, rather than just a hole bored into the float strut attachment brace. My comments about the mislocated float brace pieces still are valid. And I still stand behind my comments on the problems with the assembly jig, although the modified jig now appears to have properly positioned the floats with respect to the body...the problem there was with my misinterpretation of the strut attachment to the fuselage.

Here is the final set of photos. For those interested in that kind of thing, I include a shot of the toolkit used for the build. The building mat is momentarily cleared of clutter...just in time to start butchering paper for Corey's latest little tinclad gem. Watch this space....

[whulsey]

Looks nice, good save there.

Know what you mean about "reaffirming my belief that is isn't what you know that gets you into trouble...it's what you know that ain't so the does the dirty to you". Was back on my Ursus tractor finally last night when I was looking for the right flywheel pieces. After digging through and looking at everything several times I realized half those pieces were firmly glued on the left side. Luckily most will be hidden by finish and having scanned everything; I reprinted the right side and with much mumbling to self started building it 'right'.

[MacSongLi]

Darwin,

I'm thinking that you deserve another drink. After seeing somebody with your skills have that much difficulty, I wouldn't attempt this aircraft. Although I must say that your final build looks fantastic in the photos.

Great Job, and thanks for the detailed build thread and a of the tips.

Gary

[Darwin]

Gary, I wouldn't say I had more than average building skills...the biggest problems I encountered were of my own making from misreading the construction diagrams...although there are some major design errors in the float and jig, they are fairly easily correctable if one is aware of them beforehand. The problems from the fiddly nature of the rigging are as much due to my ham hands (I wear a size 13 ring) and failing eyesight as to the model design. Because of all the compound curves in the nose of the craft, lots and lots of preshaping of the skin pieces is needed, but within the skill set of most modelers if they just slow down a bit...as you say, speed is fine, but accuracy is everything...and Ron's frames have been a huge help in getting proper fit of the parts. I think the decision to rig the plane with piano wire rather than thread also increased the difficulty, but well worth the effort, as I found the rigging actually is functional as well as visually pleasing. As the local hobby shop folded up and went south, I had to resort to going to the music stores and begging discarded guitar strings from them. A guitar 1st string (G string) works just fine...I'm not sure what actual diameter is, but would guess less than 0.01 inch, maybe on the order of 5 mils.

[YOAVHOZMI]

looks very beautiful.

YOAV

[MacSongLi]

Thanks Darwin for the insight and help, but my wife is going to give one really strange look when I tell her that I'm going out to buy a "G string".

Gary

[cgutzmer]

fabulous build given the float issues! I did pass the comments on to marek.
Thanks
Chris

[Wilfried]

Well done, Darwin!
You built up a nice and amazing version of this prewar German Floatplane. Thanks for sharing with us. Ill hope, getting the laser cut frames here in Europe?

lovely regards
Wilfried