Question about rudder thickness on WW1 planes

[Pgtaylorart]

I've been modeling HO building structures in card for years, but making airplanes is new to me with a whole new set of challenges. One thing I can't seem to figure out as I look at the photos in the gallery is how the leading edges of thin WW1 rudders and elevators are rounded and don't just look like two pieces of card, with maybe a third piece, sandwiched in between. I notice small cut lines around the perimeter of curved rudders like WW1 Sopwiths and Bristols, for example. I assume the edges are rounded somehow and butt glued, but how?

Any advise on how this is achieved will be appreciated. (I'm sure this will be the first of many ridiculous, and meticulous questions from me)

Thanks!
George Taylor

PS: The gallery pics are amazing and very inspiring!

[Tim Crowe]

Generally on the larger scales (1:33) flying surfaces are made from one piece with the leading edge formed into a curved front section. The thinner trailing edge then formed from the outer edges

There is usually some form of internal structure made out of thicker card. This can be a very simple spar like length of card to quite a complicated structure of spars and ribs.

I find it best to preform the section, to the desired shape before attaching and spars.

Building the Fiddlersgreen kits gives a great introduction to this technique.

Tim

[Leif Ohlsson]

Excellent explanation, Tim.

George, for two illustrations of what Tim's talking about, I just finished some photos of what a stab building of a biplane (WWII, admittedly, same principle though) looks like. See this post for the stab, and this one for a good use of rolling the edges of flat parts (more common on Fiddlers Green models).

Leif

[Longbow]

George,
Tim shows the technique in his build of the wild cat, 4th page

[Pgtaylorart]

Thanks for the quick responses! I knew you guys would have the answer, and with photo illustrated examples to boot. Now I have to try these techniques on the Marek Bristol F2b I just purchased from ecardmodels.

-George

[rockpaperscissor]

On a smaller scale model, internal ribs aren't really necessary. Lightly score the leading edge, work a slight curve into the upper and lower wing surfaces. Then bend the part over at the score, and glue at the trailing edge. I often cut away the trailing edge glue tab (if provided), and use a scrap piece of card like a putty knife to lay down a thin bead of glue along the trailing edge, then press together. The slight bow you worked into the skins will remain, and may even need to be flattened a bit. Practice on a scrap piece of card cut into a rectangle and scored across the center.