#61
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Thank you, gentlemen! Sharunas, allow me to quickly share my technique for rigging. I have found that the best way, for me, to get taut rigging is to start with a taut material, preferably either steel or brass rod. These are usually available in hobby shops or craft stores. I also use blackened, annealed wire. Annealed wire can be straightened by pulling simultaneously on both ends with pliers; however, once it is straightened, care must be used not to accidentally bend it again. Steel or brass rod is mostly immune to this difficulty (it can flex without permanently bending), although very fine brass rod is pretty easy to bend, too.
Before putting all the sub-assemblies together, I poke holes into the skins at the rigging attachment points, using a sewing pin or wire-sized drill. When I am ready to do the rigging, I measure and cut the wire/rod slightly larger than the actual length of the rigging. This allows me to insert one end of the rod into one insertion point and then pull the other end up and into the second insertion point. I then fix both ends with a spot of CA glue. This technique works a treat for me and goes pretty fast, and the nice thing about it is that one can use various diameters of rod/wire for the different types of wire/cable used on the actual aircraft. The very small diameter control cables are done with 2-lb monofilament fishing line blackened with permanent marker. The rod is easier to use, but of course the fishing line is available in much smaller diameters. I believe fly fishing tippet line is even available in 1-lb test. Good rigging makes these old-timers really come to life, I think.
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Chris Coyle Greenville, SC "When you have to shoot, shoot! Don't talk." |
#62
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Very good to see this aircraft taking shape. The winter camo still looks very good to me, and I'm happy you negotiated the difficulties encountered.
Exhaust tubes look great, and your technique sounds very useful and practical. The boxy thing is, I believe, the optional intake to the carburettor for heated air (to avoid icing up under those iffy conditions near or below 0°C). The air is sucked through the two collars around the hot exhaust tubes, and thus get heated before entering the carburettor intake (boxy thingy). Very good work, happy for you! - L. PS. I went with the original prop as well. Considered making a more advanced version. Tried it once, didn't turn out well. My engine (with exhausts still unmounted) is here. |
#63
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Wow, Chris, what an astounishing result! Not only a medal for the rigging but a complete statue and a star on the paper modeling Walk of Fame as well.
Erik |
#64
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Hi ccoyle,
reading description of Your's firstly I thought about the technique that use 1/72 plastic modelers when laced steel wire is clamped with copper micro-rod, without using nodes. But technique of Yours is way simpler and discovery for me. Because paper sometimes can't take tension forces in small areas. Whereas rod can sustain rigid form by itself without any influence to paper. Thanks
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Finished projects: RMS Mauretania 1/250; SS Canberra 1/250; Toyota Hilux Overdrive; Current projects: SS Michelangelo 1/250 |
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kartonowa kolekcja, polikarpov po-2 |
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