Vought XF4U-1, 1/72, designed by NOBI, repainted by Jeff Orcutt

[papermate]

This model is originally at 1/100, a freeby downloadable from Nobi's website in his free 1/100 series. I have enlarged it to 1/72 and took it to a photoprint shop and printed them on 4R Kodak glossy prints. The result is stunning but the build process is hard and required a lot of patience. This Corsair shows all flaps down in taxiing mode. The prop hub is metallic, a beading accessories and some efforts were necessary to drill three holes for the prop blades. Then again a short spinner video to go with it here Corsair 1 72 - YouTube.

So, if NOBI would like to do 1/72 for his pay or free models, I and other will be glad to have them.

Papermate

[papermate]

Forgot to mention that there's a glitch in the template regarding the tail stabilizer as
shown in the attached pic. Perhaps Jeff would have a look at it.

Papermate

[paperengineer]

Wow! That's a cool propeller! That must have been fun to make

[RunwayOneSixRight]

Picture of the week inbound!

-RunwayOneSixRight (Matthew)

[elliott]

The Corsair looks really good. Having it printed at a print shop on glossy photo paper made all the difference.
I am curious - you say the build process is hard. What were the problems you ran into?
Were they related to gluing the glossy photo paper?

[hawkman67]

Papermate,
Very, Very excellent work on the Upscale build! It looks great on that photo paper, I have read that it is hard to work with.. So even more impressive.

On the Horizontal stabs, and elevators, they were interchangeable left and right, the little round inspection panels were on the top of the left and bottom of the right up til the later F4U-5, where they were reworked, and those panels were deleted.
Jeff

[RyanShort1]

Looks good and a nice job on the build, but it totally looks fake because any time one aileron is down - the opposite aileron should be UP. ;-) Someone needs to fire the rigger because the pilot's going to have a hard time controlling the aircraft.

Ryan

[papermate]

Thank you all. It is hard to keep the rolled part in place as the photo paper is resilient
and much effort is needed to "tame" the paper before applying glue. Sometimes I felt
that I needed a third hand to hold the part to apply glues (PVA followed by traces of CA.
Please make sure the PVA glue is dry and clear before applying CA over it).
Another hard part is not to make a mess of the parts to be joined. If excess PVA goes to
the surface, you can swipe it off with a slightly damp tissue or cotton swap but you can't
do it the third try. The second try is the utmost you can do to achieve a clean surface.
If CA glue, you have only one try as the fluid glue runs so quickly and extensively to places
you can't imagine. The next hard part is the backing of the photo paper. In some
cases, you have to peel off the top layer of the back of the paper very cautiously to ensure
the glue will adhere. Overdoing it, liking peeling off the next layer of paper, you will end
up seeing ribbed joints. Perhaps you can do an experiment yourselves. Get an old photo
that you don't need to try to build a cube. Use only glossy paper, don't use matt paper.
Well, that's my two-cent.

Papermate

[papermate]

Just an example of the "ribbed joint" effect that I experienced when try to build the
CANT 1018 with photo prints. The project has been put on hold pending completion of
other builds in hand. If I should resume building it, I will cut out the part and glue it
on another piece of thicker paper like 130 gsm paper to hide the ribbed joints.

Papermate

Papermate

[paperengineer]

Originally Posted by RunwayOneSixRight

Picture of the week inbound!

-RunwayOneSixRight (Matthew)

It's got my vote!