#51
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Hi Erik. I'm following your construction because i've in mind build the f-104 too. Have a doubt about finish and need to learn. Wish to know why prints have to be sealed amb why you choose this varnish. I always find that aircraft paper models are too matt. What i mean is metallic aircraft panels are light gloss due the pains used, and ww1 biplanes made with fabric were coated with varnish with a light gloss finish. Not much better a semigloss coat?
Thanks |
#52
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Clean lines
Erik
You always make the build look so easy. Nice clean lines and a good fit there buddy. Regards |
#53
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Hi guys, first of all thank you for your reactions!
Wad Cutter and Ciuttso, regarding the type of varnish I'm using the story is in fact quite simple. I never used varnish on my models and only read about it on this site. After deciding it has its advantages I looked around in a local painter's hobbyshop to see what types are available. The one that is quite commonly found in various shops here in NL is from a well-known brand named Talens and besides being used to protect paintings also suitable for paper modeling. It's acrylic/oil based and I think this is a common base material for many varnishes, regardless which brand choose. Ask anyone around this community and likely each one comes with a different brand. I guess there's not too much difference between them. Up so far I have only found matt and gloss finish. Gloss is obviously out of the question for military models and matt may be too matt but I find there's a slight hint of shine about it (eggshell like as it says on the can), which is just enough and if you apply more than one layer it tends to shine a bit more. I usually spray one layer on all the model sheets to protect the print from damaging during modeling, to give the paper some extra strength (this is particularly important for vulnerable parts like canopy frames) and to make it easier to remove glue stains. There is hardly any effect on adhesiveness, whether you use clear glue or white glue. One other aspect about spraying varnish is that silver fish do not seem to like it - at least I noticed less attacks and damage (white spots) after starting to use varnish. Once done with the model or done with a certain section I spray again lightly or use a brush to cover up painted edges and glue lines (I have a habit of sealing joints with diluted white glue). With respect to the F104G, and I'm still learning every day, too much varnish leads to areas that are too shiny or it gives the surface a bit of a flaky look. If you look carefully at some of the pictures of the model you will notice that the area around the right air intake is shinier than other parts. I used too much varnish here and can't correct it anymore. I've been struggling tremendously with this part of the model. So Al, it's definitely not so easy as it may look. I'm working on the tail section at the moment, which certainly has a few challenges as well. More about that later, it cost me a few hours of sleep altogether in the past few nights. Enjoy your holidays, Erik |
#54
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Tail and Air brakes
Time for an update. I have worked on the tail section for several weeks, in fact sort of in parallel with the wings. Construction of both sections is similar: A relatively elaborate inner structure and an enveloped skin to be wrapped around it. The most difficult part was the trailing edge of the vertical stabilizer; this has a wedge-like concave part (no. 107, see picture), which can be installed much easier if the exhaust outlet is placed at a later stage. Perhaps this is indicated in the building instructions but my knowledge of Polish is extremely limited and I have been following the numerical order of the parts up so far. Also, there is no notch or something sticking out from the fuselage so it’s a difficult to properly align the stabilizer. It simply has to be glued on top of the fuselage with very few markers to help in properly positioning it.
There’s very little fat to attach the horizontal stabilizer to the tail fin, which makes the tail section a fragile part of the model. I wonder how the real thing must have been: Quite some aerodynamic forces must have been exercised on these parts of the aircraft so a strong construction should be a prerequisite. Finally I touched up the painted edges with varnish but the result is disappointing. Rather than drying up matt, most of the touched up areas remain a bit glossy (for some reason mainly on the green camouflage) and this sort of spoils the looks of the model. Not much that can be done about that I’m afraid, just have to live with it. As I had a few hours to spare last weekend, I started on the air brakes, which I intend to install in the open position. It was a lot of work to get the small ribs and other structural parts in place, not in the last place because they require such a lot of paint touch-ups. This will be a very delicate structure so I’m not sure when I will glue them in place. So I decided to continue with the wing fuel tanks, which look like big Havana cigars and a lot of segments to assemble. Last pictures show my work place. It's modest but functional. That’s it for now, Erik |
#55
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Erik
Regarding the wing fuel tanks, in my opinion the tip tanks are a must since it was almost always used. The other ones are a nice touch. Either way, you decide. Issac
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My gallery [http://www.papermodelers.com/gallery...v-r-6&cat=500] Recent buildsMeteor F1, Meteor F8, Mig-Ye8, NA Sabre, A-4E Skyhawk,Mig-15 red, Mig-17 repaint |
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#56
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Erik, nice build and a very helpful progress report.
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#57
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Lovely neat work
Looks like she's nearly ready for take-off Tim |
#58
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Wing fuel tanks
Hello and back again with a small update. Thanks again for your feedback!
Isaac, regarding the weaponry and other equipment: The kit has included wing fuel tanks, wing tip fuel tanks and wing tip sidewinder missiles. The wing equipment is interchangeable, a smart feature of the designer. I like the model with full equipment so intend to install the wing tanks as well. Didn't have much time to spare last week but here's a bit of progress on the wing tanks; quite a few segments to make and the nose part is of a petal design. The first picture shows the central segment, the orangy color is thanks to my desk light. I used a small pin on a dowel to pre-shape the 8 petals and then glued them together one by one in such a way as to obtain two halves of 4 each, and then glued both halves together. A small hair drier is a very handy tool to help in the drying process. Finally I cut out a small round piece of paper, painted it and glued it on the inside to reinforce the glued petals. A bit of additional white glue on the inside and there you have a solid assembly. Usually I glue joining strips on the inside as well but the nose of the fuel tank is too small and it's not really necessary. A bit of cutting technique I learned from making bird models (especially the feathers) helps to cut out the petals in an easier and faster way. Next time the Havana's should be ready! Erik |
#59
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Nice job on the petals Erik. Well done!
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This is a great hobby for the retiree - interesting, time-consuming, rewarding - and about as inexpensive a hobby as you can find. Shamelessly stolen from a post by rockpaperscissor |
#60
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That's a nice build !
I see you're keeping the nose for the end I always have some concerns with doing those parts
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On: Gpm neubaufahrzeug Still not dead: Gpm mi 4,Gpm jagdpanther, Done: Mod hobby typ 97,Wak b1bis,Gpm ob3,Modelik vbl, Gpm do335,Halinski p39,Modelik flak 36,Modelik t27 |
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Tags |
f-104g, starfighter |
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