Murph's Models - Fairchild C-119 Flying Boxcar, 1/74

[umtutsut]

Originally Posted by elliott

@Les - Since you build w photo paper maybe you can help out here. I understand Photo paper is difficult to glue (and stay glued). What do you use for glue? Any special techniques?

I've never had a problem except with the Red River shiny silver metallic paper, which is no longer available.

I use Aleene's Turbo Tacky Glue for general assembly. Occasionally I use gap-filling super glue for instant bonding if I need to edge-glue parts.

Les (The Voice of Authority -- VoiceofAuthority.net - The Voice Stylings of Les Dorr, Jr.)

[Wad Cutter]

Beautiful plane Paper, I mean real beautiful. How you ever get all those edges to line up correctly and the color scheme fits it perfectly. I don't think I would be able to make this and have it come out anywhere close. You have a way of making a beautiful aircraft look even more so. Thank you very much Papermate for sharing another gem with us all. wc.

[Knife]

I wish my lines lined up as nicely after unfolding as Aaron's lines. I always have to make 3 or 4 test builds before they even start to come close.

What did you use to make the navigation dome (the clear dome above the cockpit)?

[Don Boose]

Another outstanding build, Papermate. You always do a really beautiful job on these models.

Don

[papermate]

Thank you guys for your kind comments.

Photo papers - If you meant photo papers for computers are in fact
not that smooth and even on the surface. Better than ordinary
printing paper, photo papers do not show a very smooth surface
when you look at it at an angle. If you have to use them, my 2-cent
is use high quality ones. Brand names like Epxxx and Caxxx are good.
I have stocked up some cheap ones from Dollar Store when
I was in Canada some years ago. One Canadian dollar per pack
containing ten sheets. You just can't believe it. The colours faded in a rate
faster than expected.

Photo prints - Papers you find in photo output shops where have your
pictures taken with your camera to print. The surface of this paper
is super smooth as the manufacturer, like Koxxx, has pressed a
thin protective layer on top and at the back of each photo. The
drawback is that they are limited in size to mostly 4x6" for the most
economic and favourable size. Anything larger will cost more.
I normally just use PVA white glue, Elmer in my case, to glue them.
It takes some patience and at times for smaller parts, I would peel
off the back layer to show the small paper fibers that will hold together
fine when glued. Don't over do it, however, and just focus on taking
away the topmost layer. And to finish it off, cautiously put
some CA glue sparingly over the joints. Use a toothpick or
a larger sewing needle to apply the CA glue. You must be aware
that CA glue runs very quickly to places beyond your imagination.
At times, I got my thumb and indexed finger glued to the
part during assembly. When that happens, you either re-do the whole or
part of the assembly, or just leave it there, very ugly though with impressions of
your fingerprints. OK, that proves the model is yours and nobody else's,
that's for sure.

The clear astrodome - I have a rounded end metal chopstick that
I used to heat form the clear dome. If you don't have it,
try using a wooden rod, sand it round at one end, and it
is just as good. Make sure that the rod can pass through
the hole on the template where the dome is supposed to
go. I think I have posted this heat forming method somewhere and I will
try to find it and post it again later.

Thank your for your patience reading this long-winded post
that I hope you would understand.

Papermate

[papermate]

Here ya go about the heat forming technique for small clear
canopy http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/a...tml#post348716.

Papermate

[murphyaa]

One good thing about Rhino is what you see on the screen is what you get on paper. About 5 percent of unrolls do go haywire though. Some models have never made it out of Rhino.

[MacSongLi]

Thanks papermate, I'm heading over to the dollarstore today!

Gary

[murphyaa]

The Water Bomber C-119 is now available for $5.00

[BILL AMOS]

I have been waiting on this one your build i super...i like the shiny finish..ill have to try that....bill