Halinski Hawker Hurricane

[cdwheatley]

Thanks for the info .

[malc]

I stick the copied formers onto card and then cut them out. Rymans/Partners is the best source of 20 micron card here in the UK I think you'll find.
I use UHU clear glue almost all the time now. I found that PVA tended to sag on the paper parts, where UHU didn't.

[cdwheatley]

20 microns?! I'm looking for 0.5mm and 1mm card though (500 and 1000 microns!). I've had a look online but can't find anything much. Does anyone know where in the UK I can get these thicknesses of card?

[birder]

CD Dan's advice pretty much says it, personally have been using for ** parts chipboard, like backs of paper pads or cereal box (although glue doesn't stick too well to the painted side of a cereal box) and laminate a copy of the former cut out to shape, and I usually use white glue. Then cut out the former's details with a blade. I use white glue because it stiffens the card when dry. If it is warped too much then I glue a second layer of bond paper to the back, this stiffens the little tabs (as long as they havn't become too thick) and can be pressed flat to dry and be true. It may sound like alot to do, but I do all the main formers and associated peices at once, so not too bad that way. Dry fit all the parts and trim the tabs and slots so they fit easily before any glueing is good too. I love Halinsky kits!!

[Keds_Girl_Lala]

Hi Chris

For the card, you can buy 1mm, 1.5mm etc from a place like Paper Model Store, although I find that card it is soft like the back of a writign tablet. I glue come cereal box card together and it is better. But now I use 1/32 Basswood. It is approx 1mm to 1.5mm equivalent and in some way it is easier to cut than the hard card. I have laminated also some 110 card to some layers of bristol board from a drawing pad.

To transfer the templates to the card, you can use something like spray glue or I often use a glue stick and just cut the template and card together at the same time. I find often the templates they are too big or too small (mostly too big) so you can sand them closer, especially if you use the wood.

All of my models they are scans. And remember when you purchase a down load model... you print that one yourself any way. I make mistake a lot so I need extra parts for sure... I find some time now and then a kit part is is wrong or even I am missing a part (like you need 20 and they give 18). So the scan it is useful.

I do not like the white/pva glue so much for the whole model. I use a clear solvent type glue like Uhu Kleber or Devcon Weldit. Those glues they do not soften the paper and make it mushy. I do use some Aleene's Tacky and Fast Grab glue some and it is very good... but use it sparingly. I use also Zap A Gap for things now very often. It is very fast and neat for the springy parts.

[birder]

This is one of the nice things about cardmodeling! You really can use whatever works for you! If you have concerns about getting the exact thickness, you can purchase exact thickness card.

[smyfe]

Hi Chris try this for 1mm card
A4 Grey Board 1000micron Stiffeners 10 Sheet Pack New on eBay (end time 06-Jul-09 11:31:43 BST), or this one
http://www.charnwoodbooks.co.uk/shop/index.php/cPath/46
just bought some and it doesn't seem too bad. I've just bought the Halinski Hurricane myself, so some lessons will be very useful:D
Best wishes
Mick

[cdwheatley]

I'd already seen that eBay listing Mick but the Charnwood Books site is new to me, thanks!

[malc]

Sorry Chris, I meant 200 microns (the card that printed kits usually come on). You have a Hobby Craft store close by to you and they carry thick card. I visited a local indoor market recently and spoke to one the stalls selling greetings card making stuff, and she gave me some A4 sized sheets of 1mm card, that were used by a supplier to back up packs of thin coloured paper. She was going to bin them and was quite happy to give them to me. I also have a print framer who is more than happy to include a sheet of thick card in his order for me whenever I need it.