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#11
06-20-2009, 08:57 AM
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Wow, that is a beautiful build, Mikhail!!! Your work will also inspire us to strive for a higher standard!(as it has already!) Congratulations on completeing this.
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regards Glen 
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#13
06-20-2009, 09:22 AM
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That is hands-down the most impressive thing I've seen on this forum to date. I studied it closely for any indication that it might be paper, but none. It has more detail than any plastic model I've ever seen too. Looks like a perfect showroom model of the real thing.
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Put on hold build (someday I'll finish): F-35A Lightning II 1:72 Previous builds: cMags' Card Model Builds
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#14
06-20-2009, 11:43 AM
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And you want us all to believe that it is made of paper? :D
Asolute top! Next POW!!
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#15
06-20-2009, 06:06 PM
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Today is the day I have waited for. Paper model outstripped plastic model!!! I look forward to your next building report
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#16
06-20-2009, 10:44 PM
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#17
06-21-2009, 04:38 AM
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Gentlemen, thanks for the kind words. This outstanding Halinski's kit definitely deserved adequate realization
Quote:
The method is as the following 1. Printed/purchased sheets get covered with acrylic varnish. Sheets of usual model card (which is dense) get covered plentifully so that the paper absorbs a significant amount of varhish. Sheets printed on a special non-absorbing paper or by special paints like this Mustang get covered economically - just to cover the surface The covering strengthens the paper - it does not become shaggy at cutting and processing, and the most important thing - it does not absorb acrylic paint when I tint edges. It is very important. If acrylic paint casually gets where it is not needed on out-of-box paper, it's hard to remove it because it gets instantly absorbed by such paper. When the paper is covered, however, the paint is not absorbed by it and just lays over - and this liquid layer is easy for erasing with a finger. So no traces where not appropriate 2. Cut edges get prepared as follows:  specifically, I remove remains of black boundary lines (I cut always strictly by the middle of these lines) and make edges semi-rounded 3. I then tint edges with acrylic paint using wooden stick and fingers (and a towel!). I plentifully put paint on the edge with a stick and immediately remove excess paint with a finger. Specifically I try to completely remove extra paint from the face surface (it's easy - this surface is covered with acrylic), and to leave only necessary amount of paint on the edge. Then I smooth the semi-dried up edge - again with a finger. I wipe fingers with a towel, and upon the end of work I wash them with soap  The results are edges and joints still visible but made accurately As you see from my shots posted to the gallery, joint seams are still visible - but only when you try to recognize them specifically. I reckon this is sufficient for a decently looking model
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#18
06-21-2009, 10:13 AM
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Mikhail, thank you for that detailed description, it is helpful although it is your skill that allows for the results you show, clearly! This is one of the most helpful descriptions of treating the edges of joints that I have read, I think possible could be saved as a tutorial?
The acrylic paint does make a real difference, does it also stiffen the edge when dry, although may not be as easy to glue?Seeker of improved skills, or how to get a model half as good as Mikhail or Yu....(Johnny, Bruce, and in the words of Don their ilk... )
__________________
regards Glen
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