#21
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Thanks, YOAV and Nando.
Nando, the paper I used is not normal photo paper that you can either print from your own printer or from an output house where they can laser print the templates on the laser print paper. Sound confusing? The photo paper that I've been talking about is the photoprints that you normal find in the most popular size of 4x6 inches and are obtainable when you take your photos (from a film or digital camera) for print out. They are mostly Kodak paper that has a smooth and clear layer on top. They are comparatively cheaper than larger sizes like 8x10 or 8x12 inches (A4 size) photoprints. So what I do is that I copy and paste the parts and squeeze them on a 4x6 print as far as possible. Like the Corsair that I do, I need to have 15 pieces of 4x6 prints to work with. I have to laminate the parts on thick paper, e.g. 260 gsm or the like. The glue I used is the Elmer PVA white glue which I think is very dependable. But before cutting the 4x6 prints, I cover it with food wraps to prevent messiness like fingerprints and glue traces. At the final stage when the model is up for display or photo-taking, I would peel off the food wraps with sticky tapes and the result is most satisfactory. Papermate |
#22
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So no cracks, no trasparent coat, all went smoothly when you fold the paper. It's only matter of kind of paper.
Good idea to protect the surface with food wraps when you handle the model. Thanks, Nando
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My builds Last Udon's LM @ 1/96;Collier’s Ferry Rocket (1952);Gundam Sinanju MS-06S Current Apollo CM 1-24 Fat Man & Little Boy available here |
#23
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Hi Nando, that's the idea. Unless you score on the surface, there won't be any cracks
when you fold the paper. Don't forget edge colouring when glueing the parts together. Papermate |
#24
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Gee! That pointers means a lot.
Thanks Papermate for this information. Worth a treasure. Can't be bought. More power! Marvin |
#25
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Thanks, Marvin, for stopping by.
Papermate |
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