#21
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very cool engine I like the "easy to assemble"
I think the difference lies in the designer, the cylinders from Lukas' Orlik P-47 are the same as his other engines from different publishers for example. Even used the same cylinder design for Japanese engines, not just Pratt and Whitney.. Making 3 rows would bog down a bit but using an assembly line type of idea makes it ok. Will look great with push rods and valve covers to be sure.
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regards Glen |
#22
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Nice and clean work!
It's always pleasure to look at your work |
#23
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Thanks for the comments
@ Glen - You are most probably right! By the way, GPM publishes models from many designers and it is not surprising to see different styles on their kits. I said "easy" but I could say "tedious", too . I find Halinki's engines much harder to assemble and not less tedious... The engine is complete. I didn’t find the back engine former and added a card circle to fix the shape. It is red just because I used a bit left from another kit. The engine points slightly downwards from the rear bulkhead. |
#24
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Great-looking engine. Are the push rods made of rolled paper or painted wire?
Don |
#25
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Thanks Don The rods are made from unpainted wire I have applied rolled paper on some models but not on this one.
Anyone who has dealt with GPM’s paper knows that i tis almost inevitable to delaminate in order to make long and thin cylinders, like those on the rockets. Fortunately, it is easy to delaminate. In this case, extra care is needed in the slices that model the noses. As usual, I added a paper roll to fix the shape. |
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#26
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My first time peeking in on this thread thanks to Don Boose's recommendation. He was telling me about your ingenious use of tightly rolled paper tubes as a supporting foundation for a variety of parts. It's obviously an extremely effective method, as your results are pristine. Is there a trick to getting them so tightly wound? I always wind up with a hollow center, where your center starting point appears almost solid.
Beautiful work.
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Regards, Don I don't always build models, but when I do... I prefer paper. Keep your scissors sharp, my friends. |
#27
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@ rockpaperscissor - thanks for the comment . Right, the paper rolls I make are virtually solid, unless I choose to put a wire inside. As you know, it is much easier to get a “solid” short paper roll than a long one. For a short roll (maybe up to an inch, or a bit more) I get a solid center from the start. A longer one tends to have a hole but, by rolling between the thumb and the forefinger, it gradually closes. It is interesting to note that the roll becomes tighter or looser depending on the direction you roll while applying pressure. The paper I use (ordinary 80g/m2) has marked orthotropic properties. If it rolls well on one direction, it will roll badly if you turn 90º…
The airscrew is so big that a quite particular solution had to be devised for the landing gear. I’ll get there. Each blade has a central cylinder, which has to be cut at an angle so that the blades join properly in the hub. I didn’t manage to make acceptable joints and ended up adding parts to cover the joints |
#28
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Very clean-looking engine!
I had the same question that the other Don had, but I fear that hand skill is the essential element. "I get a solid center from the start." Hmmm. That's the trick. How to get a solid roll from the start. I am reminded of a statement made once in this Forum by Golden Bear: "At that point the part just came together in my hand." We will have to keep practicing and in the meantime admire your skill and talent. Don |
#29
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Really nice clean work there
Good job on this
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regards Glen |
#30
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Great looking engine. Almost ready to fire it up. Anxiously awaiting the rest of the build, if it's this good so far.
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1/33, gpm, grumman bearcat |
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