#11
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Lets start- preliminaries
The first thing is to collect the .jpeg formatted files for printing and loading the printer with appropriate card stock. For me, I still have a stash of card stock I purchased while residing in Tokyo a few years ago. I purchased packs of laser printer paper of 160 g/m2 in A4 size. I purchased it at Tokyo Hands department store for those that are familiar with Japan. The main thing about this paper is that it is silky smooth and very dense. You can roll it or fold it and it will not crack. Just fantastic stuff.
The next step is to print it correctly at 100% file size. The problem here is that the files are in jpeg format and not pdf, so if you just print it as is from windows viewer or otherwise, it will just fit it to the paper regardless of the true scale. So if you print them separately, each page will come out different scale ( I think that happened to some of our builders here including myself ). so You must read it to a program that allows you to print the jpeg file to its true 100%. For me, I used Photoshop Elements. Then when you print it full size the model scale comes to 1/30 scale which is what Yoav models turned out to be. one other point in printing: The printed page is intended to A4 size. I made a mistake of not selecting that size and let it stay at US letter size and it cropped off parts on top. So after printing 2 pages wrong, I corrected it to A4. here is one of the printed pages lastly, I sprayed the pages with a clear acrylic matte spray ( Americana spray purchased at Michael's art supply shop ). After a day of drying, I started cutting some parts and noted a white powdery residue on my fingers. It is from the spray. This is a surprise as I have a perfect finish with the FJ-1 Fury I just built. Anyhow, more to come. Isaac
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My gallery [http://www.papermodelers.com/gallery...v-r-6&cat=500] Recent buildsMeteor F1, Meteor F8, Mig-Ye8, NA Sabre, A-4E Skyhawk,Mig-15 red, Mig-17 repaint |
#12
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Detailed information
For Ronan and Yaron who provided detailed photos of the Super Mystere, I thank you.
The details I needed were primarily related to the speed brake details as well as the split flaps. see the inside in this picture of the plane in overhaul shape I will need to have those parts if I am to detail this kit a bit more. Thanks Isaac
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My gallery [http://www.papermodelers.com/gallery...v-r-6&cat=500] Recent buildsMeteor F1, Meteor F8, Mig-Ye8, NA Sabre, A-4E Skyhawk,Mig-15 red, Mig-17 repaint |
#13
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The printing thingy is interesting. This may have been the error why the wing fairing on my Kfir did not match perfectly as I was used to from Yoavs planes. My fault it seems.
Thank you for the explanation Isaac. Will remember that next time :D
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Cheers from germany, Chris Currently building: Colonial Viper from Uhu02 Finished:Yoav Hozmis Kfir |
#14
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Quote:
Printing jpeg files is critical. I can't emphasize it any stronger. Most of us are used to printing pdf files and those always maintain their size since we use Adobe pdf readers and there is no variation or issues. jpeg files are different and great care should be taken when printing. This is true especially if you print the pages at different times or different programs and then not paying attention only to find that parts do not fit or that the colors are not all the same. In some cases there is a glaring disproportion if the builder is not aware. Isaac
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My gallery [http://www.papermodelers.com/gallery...v-r-6&cat=500] Recent buildsMeteor F1, Meteor F8, Mig-Ye8, NA Sabre, A-4E Skyhawk,Mig-15 red, Mig-17 repaint |
#15
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Model color variants
This particular model is painted in the standard French comouflage that France and Nato air forces used in the 60s and 70s. Also common or similar to what the USAF used in South East Asia.
The colors of this particular aircraft were retained for a short time by the IAF and Yoav rendered this version. I am sure he can provide more insight. Most of the Super Mysteres were delivered bare metal and had a fancy lightning bolt on the side. Later on before and during the Six day war, they were painted dark blue and brown on top and light grey on the bottom. After that, they were repainted in what we are used to see today with the 3 tone colors on top and pale blue below. All re engined Super Mysteres called the SA'Ar were painted as such. So back to our subject colors which make this a unique version in the IAF inventory. There is also an F-4E Phantom that was delivered to the IAF during the War of attrition in which the SEA colors of the USAF were retained and the star of David roundels were applied ( that plane had a nick name Karpada which means a frog ). building is next Isaac
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My gallery [http://www.papermodelers.com/gallery...v-r-6&cat=500] Recent buildsMeteor F1, Meteor F8, Mig-Ye8, NA Sabre, A-4E Skyhawk,Mig-15 red, Mig-17 repaint |
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#16
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Fuselage parts
Construction start
The fuselage parts are conventional cylinders and cones and are very simple in construction. Before rounding the parts though, I cut out the portions where the NACA scoops are located as well as other cutouts ( like the nose gear well and the speed brakes I plan to add later ). Here are the scoops ( there are many ). and the speed brake cut outs. Isaac
__________________
My gallery [http://www.papermodelers.com/gallery...v-r-6&cat=500] Recent buildsMeteor F1, Meteor F8, Mig-Ye8, NA Sabre, A-4E Skyhawk,Mig-15 red, Mig-17 repaint |
#17
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Air intake
The air intake is a great feature of this plane. It and the Super Sabre share a similar squashed intake that reduces the fuselage height a bit since it snakes under the cockpit going aft.
Here are the parts Of interest is the placement of a shaper disc that fits in the intake. You then drop a long bead of Super Glue around the forward open section making sure not to glue this disc. When the glue dries if forms an almost plastic like shape around the intake preserving the shape of the mouth. nose section now assemble the intake to the aircraft 2 forward nose sections Then insert the shaper disk at the mouth and add a bit more super glue from behind ( this is only if needed ) once dry, there is an intake upper panel that fits inside. Glue it in place ( mine was OK, not perfect ). I like it Isaac
__________________
My gallery [http://www.papermodelers.com/gallery...v-r-6&cat=500] Recent buildsMeteor F1, Meteor F8, Mig-Ye8, NA Sabre, A-4E Skyhawk,Mig-15 red, Mig-17 repaint |
#18
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You are off to a great start Isaac!
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Cheers from germany, Chris Currently building: Colonial Viper from Uhu02 Finished:Yoav Hozmis Kfir |
#19
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Nose section and gear bay
The nose section is joined to the section that contains the forward half of the cockpit.
Note: I decided to build the model with the gear down. However, I made the nose gear bay in a realistic way as apposed to surface only. an interesting technical note regarding the doors ( including the main gear doors ). When the aircraft is on the ground for extended period, the hydraulic pressure in the aircraft system is gradually lost and the door actuators extend under the weight of the doors. So normally, the aft nose gear door is always stowed ( same for the main ). Here is the nose gear bay cut out ( where the two forward doors that are attached to the strut are open ). the nose sections joined insert a former. Notice the cutouts for the guns. Here is the nose gear bay part sketch and add reinforcements and installed in the fuselage. And add the gun ports and a piece under the nose. Isaac
__________________
My gallery [http://www.papermodelers.com/gallery...v-r-6&cat=500] Recent buildsMeteor F1, Meteor F8, Mig-Ye8, NA Sabre, A-4E Skyhawk,Mig-15 red, Mig-17 repaint |
#20
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You're off to a flying start Isaac, well done. Interesting discussions about printing pdf's and jpeg's and the use of varnish.
I have been using A4 size 160 grams paper as well a few times and have very good experience with it. The paper is strong, yet still flexible. Last year when I made Yoav's Mirage, I initially printed it on 200 grams paper, which was just too stiff. Eventually I used 160 grams, which proved to be an excellent choice. Printing the right size may not be an issue if you set the printer output at 100% of scale. If the original is letter size however, which is shorter but wider than A4, you might end up with the margins not fully printed. For Sumato's DC-9 for instance (original on letter size) I had to reduce the size to 96% (1:75) to get the entire print on A4. Applying matt acrylic based varnish may indeed result in a bit of powdery surface but make sure that you let the pages dry properly. Maybe it also depends on the paper you use for printing and spray as equally as possible. It's not a big deal, over time the powdery touch seems to disappear is my experience. Regards, Erik |
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