Nakajima Ki-43 - Halinski - 1/33

[Don Boose]

Your wheels are always very realistic works of art, Ricardo!

Don

[ricleite]

Thanks, Don

Moving on to the tail, the pictures show the movable pars of the horizontal stabilizer.

[ricleite]

After the moving part, it comes the fixed one. It is interesting to note the different finish, both above and below.

[YOAVHOZMI]

Excellent work Ricardo.


Why is there a difference in color, is this the case in reality, or is it a problem with the original printing?

By the way, this is why many years ago I started to print models and not build an original models, meaning that if there was a problem in the file, there is an option to repair and print.

Even if I bought an original model, I would scan it, save the original and build the printed model .... In this way I could fix printing errors, and even if some part was broken, then you can print it and the color texture remains the same.
Which is not the case in an original model, that if you print another part, or want to add some part to the model, you can never perfectly reach the color of the original printing company.

Anyway, this is an old and long debate among the modelers in my country, which is better, build an original model or printed model at home?


keep on the great building.

YOAV

[MacSongLi]

Fantastic building skills! You're doing another amazing job.

Gary

[Royaloakmin]

It could be an error, but it also could be that the elevators were doped fabric, which would look different than the bare aluminum.

[flying rasta]

totally beautiful!

[ricleite]

Thanks for the comments, friends

@ YOAV / Fred – I am pretty sure that the color difference is a feature, not an error. The same happens on the ailerons and the upper part of the rudder, shown today.
Right, building a printed-at-home version is not so risky because you can print as many times as needed. The trouble is on print quality. It would be hard (and probably not cheap) to get the same result provided by good publishers. Much more so with a shiny paint like on this Ki-43! I got used to the risk of assembling originals and don’t even care to scan them before. Well, I acknowledge that it is not the wisest practice…

The rudder has more parts than expectable at first sight. The “problem” is on the bulbous lower section, needed to mate the rear fuselage. Careful shaping and dry fit testing is very much recommended.

[Erik Zwaan]

That's a very ingenious rudder Ricardo. What a pity all these fine cockpit details have become invisible. Do you intend to build the cockpit wit open canopy?

Regarding to scan or not before assembling a model, well, that's a calculated risk I'd say. Usually kits are provided with spare color patches, at least Orlik is doing so. Haven't seen it yet on Halinski kits.

Obviously the Japanese had basic understanding of camouflaging techniques?? Looks a bit like the green meazles to me ....

Cheers,
Erik

[ricleite]

Hello Erik and thanks for the comment

I intend to assemble the canopy in the closed position, as I almost invariably do. The canopy is very transparent and the difference between “open” or “closed” would be small. Part of the detail will, anyway, be hidden.
Right, colored bits of paper are often seen on Modelik, Orlik and GPM, just to name a few. Not on Halinski kits. On some double face parts, the back is painted on a rectangle, larger than needed. It is a way to get spare painted paper and I have used the trick a few times…
Hmm, the color scheme looks perfect if the objective is to say “look, I here!!!!”. Shiny paint, green patches (applied in the field, I guess), bright yellow wing leading edge and large red markings make up for something eye-catching, not the opposite. Good for paper models

The rear fuselage is somewhat card-intensive. I tend to cut the formers just inside the line. It is often useful to have room for adjustments. In this case, the assembly proved easy.