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  #11  
Old 12-05-2017, 08:40 AM
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Isaac Isaac is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik Zwaan View Post
Hi Isaac,

Good luck with this project, I will follow your build with great interest. I must say I printed my model on a professional color printer at work and the only option I had during printing was to select the paper weight, no premium or whatsoever. Colors were fine to me.
............

Cheers,
Erik

Erik

A close up of your printed parts also shows that the tan ( or light brown ) color is also a bit pink.

here is a piece of your model:
Mirage 3C- Yoav model 1/30 scale-erik-model.jpg

the aircraft should be like this: Notice how light the tan color is?
Mirage 3C- Yoav model 1/30 scale-6.jpg


Isaac
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  #12  
Old 12-05-2017, 12:22 PM
YOAVHOZMI YOAVHOZMI is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isaac View Post
Yoav

I do not spray my models at all. I had two models sprayed with Americana in the past after printing and really did not like the residue they left.

The pink color was caused by the printer setting.

Isaac
hi Isaac

I told you before, even when you were at my house too, that five minutes after spraying, wipe the paper with dry cloth to remove the unnecessary powder from the spray.

After wiping, the result is excellent with an Americana spray.
It keeps printing from weather damage, humidity, and glue damage that can create stains without a protective layer of spray.

YOAV
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  #13  
Old 12-05-2017, 12:40 PM
YOAVHOZMI YOAVHOZMI is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isaac View Post
Erik

A close up of your printed parts also shows that the tan ( or light brown ) color is also a bit pink.

here is a piece of your model:
Attachment 331145

the aircraft should be like this: Notice how light the tan color is?
Attachment 331146


Isaac

We can not rely on images, meaning that sometimes the color is faded, sometimes the plane is shot in the strong sun, or at sunset, so the colors come out different.
Add to our problem, that each camera has other photographic characteristics and you will receive changes in the Color tone of the photographs.

The other problem are the printers that also have changes in the color of the prints, but this is already a subject for discussion in itself.

we should rely solely on accurate color schemes according to the FS standard colors.

I attach a table of the colors of the Israel air force according to the accepted standard in the world.
i did that table with Yaron.





In the following pictures you can see 2 Israel F-4E phantoms with the same schema.
The first was taken at 6:30 am and the second was taken at noon .... You can see the differences in the color of the sand (light brown) ... In the first picture it looks a bit pink and in the second it looks more yellow.

Therefore, I argue that we should rely solely on the FS colors and not on photographs.





YOAV
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  #14  
Old 12-05-2017, 12:42 PM
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Cool here we go

Here are the fuselage parts cut and ready to go
Mirage 3C- Yoav model 1/30 scale-img_5686.jpg

and rear half rolled up and glued.
Mirage 3C- Yoav model 1/30 scale-img_5691.jpg

Isaac
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  #15  
Old 12-05-2017, 12:56 PM
YOAVHOZMI YOAVHOZMI is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnMGD View Post
Thanks for your encouragement and indeed your instructions are very clear. So I should take one of your models first for the beginning, on the other hand they also look the best what I have seen, very clean lines and rivets etc. I already read from Erik Zwaan that he spays his models with varnish, this is also done by the ship model builders, but afterwards the build is ready, although not by me. I was thinking of using semi-gloss Epson paper to build my first model with and maybe spraying it afterwards with a thin layer of varnish, so it cannot break, as it did on Josef's model.

John.
My recommendation:

No matter which paper you use....it is best to spray the page after printing, and before building the model.
Spraying prevents weather damage, such as moisture and mold.
It also prevents stains that may be caused if the adhesive accidentally touches the paper during the building.



Instructions for using spray paint, according to my experience:
After printing, wait about 5 minutes for final drying.
Then spray a thin layer of spray protection at a distance of 20-30 cm.
Wait 1-2 minutes and spray another layer.
After that, wait 5 minutes and then take a dry cloth and clean the page to remove the powder that has accumulated on the page during the spraying .... This makes printing smooth and highlighted.


Some of my friends spray the model even after it's built.
But it is necessary to cover the transparent canopy, otherwise there is a fear that the spray will damage the transparency of the canopy.


good luck


YOAV
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  #16  
Old 12-05-2017, 01:53 PM
yrn_n yrn_n is offline
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Thumbs up

A good start, well done!
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  #17  
Old 12-06-2017, 04:22 PM
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Cool Exhaust nozzle

The Mirage was powered by the French Atar 9C engine.

The original version had a 2D converging nozzle
Mirage 3C- Yoav model 1/30 scale-atar-9c-original-nozzle.jpg
in that two large doors moved from fully open to a bit closed in order to maximize the thrust at various conditions and settings ( sort of like squeezing the end of a garden hose with your finger. This Mirage was delivered with such a nozzle.

Later on in its life it was converted to a full 360 actuating flap configuration
Mirage 3C- Yoav model 1/30 scale-atar_9c_exhaust_2.jpg


I double checked with Yoav to confirm that the model as depicted here had the 2D nozzle.


So, here are the parts and construction. Nothing complicated.
Mirage 3C- Yoav model 1/30 scale-img_5687.jpgMirage 3C- Yoav model 1/30 scale-img_5688.jpgMirage 3C- Yoav model 1/30 scale-img_5690.jpg

the dummy disc is held in place while super glue is applied around the cyliner to maintain a good round exhaust section.



Isaac
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  #18  
Old 12-07-2017, 02:12 PM
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Smile Rear fuselage-Exhaust section

here are the rear two fuselage sections
Mirage 3C- Yoav model 1/30 scale-img_5692.jpgMirage 3C- Yoav model 1/30 scale-img_5693.jpg


and the inner liner. Dry fit first
Mirage 3C- Yoav model 1/30 scale-img_5694.jpg



installed liner ( glue the back edge only )
Mirage 3C- Yoav model 1/30 scale-img_5697.jpgMirage 3C- Yoav model 1/30 scale-img_5696.jpg


Now install the rear frame ( 10 ). This shapes the fuselage round as well as supports the exhaust duct ( and is the only glue location for the duct ).
Mirage 3C- Yoav model 1/30 scale-img_5698.jpg


dry fit the exhaust duct
Mirage 3C- Yoav model 1/30 scale-img_5699.jpgMirage 3C- Yoav model 1/30 scale-img_5701.jpgMirage 3C- Yoav model 1/30 scale-img_5702.jpg



I decided to add locating/floating tabs to the inner liner. This will allow the exhaust duct to properly be located without gluing as there is a real space ( used for the fuselage interior skin cooling from the hot duct exterior ).
Mirage 3C- Yoav model 1/30 scale-img_5704.jpg


Exhaust duct in place and properly positioned
Mirage 3C- Yoav model 1/30 scale-img_5706.jpgMirage 3C- Yoav model 1/30 scale-img_5708.jpg


It is glued to frame 10 and floats at the rear.

as a note: all the beautiful art work on the exhaust duct exterior will not be visible when installed ( only the very ends of the exhaust nozzle 2D doors ).
Mirage 3C- Yoav model 1/30 scale-exhaust-duct.jpg



Isaac
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  #19  
Old 12-07-2017, 02:25 PM
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MacSongLi MacSongLi is offline
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Isaac,

Very nice start to another really great model.

Yoav's weathering and details really add to his kits. You will truly do justice to this model with your skills.

Gary
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  #20  
Old 12-08-2017, 02:04 AM
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Erik Zwaan Erik Zwaan is offline
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That’s a very good start indeed, Isaac! Your progress is impressive and I remember having the same sentiment regarding the engine duct: What a pity that such a beautiful print will be hidden inside the fuselage. The pictures are all that remain. The grey inside lining at the fuselage was a bit tricky, it needed some trimming for a good fit.
Regarding the colors, I tend to agree with Yoav. In normal daylight the sand color on my Mirage doesn’t look that pinkish, but it is certainly darker than the pdf on the computer screen and the pictures of real aircraft that you and Yoav have posted. Couldn’t help it, the printer settings were out of my reach as I used a printer at my work. Note the colors in the pictures may be deceiving as I normally auto-correct them after copying on the PC. The blue background of the cutting mat also influences the end result, as well as any light on my desk.
Regarding the use of (matt) varnish, I also apply a thin first coat before starting the work on a model. Then during the build and when the work’s finished I usually apply another coat by a flat brush. This gives a satin gloss look to the model, which apart from protecting it, gives it a realistic (and attractive?) look. The trick with applying varnish is never apply a too thick coat, whether sprayed or brushed, otherwise you run the risk of a powdery surface or, worse, whitish spots on the model.
Ayah, so many modelers, so many experiences!
Erik
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