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  #141  
Old 04-04-2018, 11:11 AM
smithdr smithdr is offline
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Wow, Erik. Sweet, surgical and so realistic.

I do have a dumb question, though...I always run into trouble when I skin things like wings and tails in that I see the ribbing line through the paper (check out my fin on the Fiesler). Do you only glue around the edges and just use the ribs as basic shaping or do you apply glue all over including on the ribs? Just want to know how yours looks so neat and what you technique is.

Lovely job,
Dan
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  #142  
Old 04-12-2018, 02:50 PM
Erik Zwaan's Avatar
Erik Zwaan Erik Zwaan is offline
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Horizontal stabilizer and elevator

@ Dan: Certainly no "dumb question". My usual procedure is to pre-shape the skin as much as possible, ensure a proper fit around the ribs by sanding sharp edges here and there and glue everything for as much as possible with acetate glue. Acetate glue does not contain water and therefore doesn't affect the paper's strength, unlike white glue which is water based and will deform the paper when used in larger quantities.
Then, gently rub the skin all over for even attachment. Halinski uses I think at least 160 grams paper of 0.2mm thickness, which is strong enough to prevent seeing ribbing lines through the paper and it also helps if you spray the pages with a (matt) varnish before starting to cut. The varnish makes the paper somewhat stiffer, which also helps to prevent seeing the lines shine through. But it is key to always avoid too much pressure on the part concerned.

The horizontal stabilizer and elevator surfaces are straight forward although they consist of a respectable number of sub-parts. I gave it a thought to make the elevators movable but decided in the end to not add such a detail. Once the model is finished it will be on display in a cabinet and no-one will ever start playing with the elevators so what's the point.

I'm still amazed by the wonderful print quality, the scratches, shadow effects, dirt and stains, it's truly a work of art. I hope you enjoy the close-ups with the details.

I haven't glued the tail section to the rest of the fuselage yet. Figured that it will be better to do so only after finishing the canopy.

The German words read:
"Nicht verstellen" on the elevator tab: Do not change position
"Nicht anfassen" on the rudder: Do not touch (hold on to)

Erik
Attached Thumbnails
Halinski 1:33 Ju 88D-1-img_7178.jpg   Halinski 1:33 Ju 88D-1-img_7181.jpg   Halinski 1:33 Ju 88D-1-img_7182.jpg   Halinski 1:33 Ju 88D-1-img_7184.jpg   Halinski 1:33 Ju 88D-1-img_7185.jpg  

Halinski 1:33 Ju 88D-1-img_7186.jpg   Halinski 1:33 Ju 88D-1-img_7188.jpg   Halinski 1:33 Ju 88D-1-img_7189.jpg   Halinski 1:33 Ju 88D-1-img_7191.jpg   Halinski 1:33 Ju 88D-1-img_7192.jpg  

Halinski 1:33 Ju 88D-1-img_7196.jpg   Halinski 1:33 Ju 88D-1-img_7197.jpg   Halinski 1:33 Ju 88D-1-img_7199.jpg   Halinski 1:33 Ju 88D-1-img_7200.jpg   Halinski 1:33 Ju 88D-1-img_7201.jpg  

Halinski 1:33 Ju 88D-1-img_7202.jpg   Halinski 1:33 Ju 88D-1-img_7203.jpg   Halinski 1:33 Ju 88D-1-img_7204.jpg   Halinski 1:33 Ju 88D-1-img_7205.jpg   Halinski 1:33 Ju 88D-1-img_7209.jpg  

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  #143  
Old 04-12-2018, 10:11 PM
YOAVHOZMI YOAVHOZMI is offline
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great work Erik, great work.

I wondered where you had disappeared for a long time?.....And you have not presented us with your excellent work on this model.

best regards


YOAV
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  #144  
Old 04-13-2018, 07:35 AM
ricleite ricleite is offline
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As smooth as silk! The color effects that you mention are, in my view, one of Halinski’s biggest “plus” points. They seem to be made one by one, never with copy/paste. Quite unique, indeed.


Do you make the small cuts marked on the leading edge, near the tips? From the pictures, I get the feeling that maybe, but not always. As much as possible, I try not to make the cuts. The paper and the printing are sturdy enough to cope with somewhat aggressive shaping, even if it is a risky business. Well, that’s my experience…
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  #145  
Old 04-16-2018, 01:15 AM
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Erik Zwaan Erik Zwaan is offline
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Thanks guys!

@ Yoav: I must admit that I recently had too little time for modeling, and expect to will have, unfortunately. The build is in a difficult stage now: The cockpit canopy. I'm still figuring out what would be the easiest way. Hopefully I will be able to keep the momentum going but I won't be frequenting this site a lot for some time I'm afraid.

@ Ricardo: The small cuts at the tips are part of the model. You can debate whether they're necessary or not but it was easy to shape and glue the edges this way. The resulting transition between the straight section of the leading edge (curved paper) and the outer end of the stabilizer (two halves glued together) is very smooth.

See you later,
Erik
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  #146  
Old 04-16-2018, 06:56 AM
ricleite ricleite is offline
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Thanks for the answer. I know that Halinski always prints them and the cuts are necessary on concave surfaces. On convex surfaces, it is debatable and I would prefer if the cut lines were not there...

Regarding the canopy, I'm afraid that there is no easy way. On my C6, I cut the plastic first, adjusted the edges to mate the fuselage as well as possible and dealt with the frames afterwards. Some frames required trimming, both inside and outside. It was not a pleasant task.
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  #147  
Old 04-16-2018, 09:07 AM
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birder birder is offline
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Beautiful work Eric on the tail structures That type of precision would take quite a bit of time, but the results show your efforts! Good luck on the canopy construction (although I have no doubt the result will be fitting the rest of the build.....)
Oh I was going to ask what type of glue do you use for acetate glue
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  #148  
Old 04-25-2018, 12:27 AM
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Erik Zwaan Erik Zwaan is offline
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Return to the gondola

Time for another update. Progress is slow at the moment.

Glen, the type of acetate glue I use is UHU or Bison. They both can be obtained in flasks, and especially the UHU one is useful with its "twisted cap".

The rear end of the gondola underneath the cockpit can be opened and swung downwards to allow the crew of four entering their spacious office. This section contains two machine guns and during flight one of the gunners was lying comfortably in his bath tub shooting down other birds, only protected by a semi circle of armored plating. The last picture shows how this looked like when you view from the cockpit down into the tub.

The parts that make up this section are small and the shape of the rear end is not particularly symmetrical. The machine guns were fun to make, actually and I was surprised that the gun barrels, which are simply made of rolled thin paper are in fact very strong.

The gun pedestal is made of 0.5mm thick plastic rod. I could have made the gun sights of thin wire but decided in the end to stick to the original paper version. Herewith my cutting technique for very small circles - using the sharp tip of a hobby knife and making small cuts one at the time until the circle is fully loose.

Altogether a delicate section of the model. It will only be installed after full assembly of the model to prevent any damage. So for the time being mothballed in a box and safeguarded from paper eating bugs and dust...

Erik
Attached Thumbnails
Halinski 1:33 Ju 88D-1-img_7211.jpg   Halinski 1:33 Ju 88D-1-img_7212.jpg   Halinski 1:33 Ju 88D-1-img_7219.jpg   Halinski 1:33 Ju 88D-1-img_7235.jpg   Halinski 1:33 Ju 88D-1-img_7236.jpg  

Halinski 1:33 Ju 88D-1-img_7237.jpg   Halinski 1:33 Ju 88D-1-img_7210.jpg   Halinski 1:33 Ju 88D-1-img_7238.jpg   Halinski 1:33 Ju 88D-1-img_7239.jpg  
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  #149  
Old 04-25-2018, 05:11 AM
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Tonino Tonino is offline
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About the gunsights: did you consider, as an alternative to paper, to print them on a transparent sheet?
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  #150  
Old 04-25-2018, 08:21 AM
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birder birder is offline
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Nice job on those delicate parts, I don’t recall a flare gun in other Hal models ...
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