Seeking forum wisdom

[MichaelS]

I am using matte photo paper for the kits I print out. Is this OK? Is there a better choice? Do I need to use heavier for the inner structure pieces?

[Texman]

Hmmm, quite the broad question.

Depending on your scale, that is part of the determination of what paper to use.

I usually model in 1/144. I found that a card stock in the area of 65lb works well.

Larger scales need a thicker card to work well.

Inner structures? This is an area that needs a little clarity.
Are you referring to the inner structure as cockpit?
Or frames/bulkheads/formers?

[MichaelS]

Thanks for the reply.


Frames,. Bulkheads and formers

[Astroboy]

Some matte photo paper has a coating that prevents the absorption of printer ink (and glue). I recommend you check to see if the glue you use adheres well.

[Amccombs3]

I agree with Texman. 65 pound cardstock is good for most models, except for very small ones. I use a high-quality bond paper for Bruno's 1:300 airplanes, for example. A large, simple model like a simple architectural model might benefit from heavier cardstock, around 90-100 lbs. But if you get good results with matte photo paper, great!

As for the internal structure, I usually glue the printed cardstock to some cardboard that is about 1mm thick. My local comic book shop saves that kind of board for me (it's packing material from when their stock is shipped to them -- NOT collector's backing board). The stiffener from a pad of paper, or breakfast cereal carton cardboard, works too.

The Europeans in the group can advise you better if you are not in the USA.

[Lighter]

I use photo paper for almost everything. If it needs to be thicker I laminate it to whatever stock gets me that thickness. I mostly use Canon paper which seems to glue fine. Note, I do not use Elmer's or Aleene's so your gluing experience might be very different!

I use Tombow markers for edges. Scotch permanent roller adhesive for small laminations and 3M photo mount spray for larger laminations. Most parts gluing is done with Loctite GO2 Glue All Purpose Adhesive. I use occasional CA gel.

When I need thinner material I use matt brochure paper which prints about the same. For the very thin stock, I tape a piece of hard surface tissue along the leading edge to a sheet of typing paper and use the back feed of my printer. With tissue set your printer to "draft" or "fast" so that less ink is put onto the paper.

[Paper Kosmonaut]

Ayyy.. Imperial weights versus rest-of-the-world weights. It still is confusing, since I always find loads of different gsm to imperial size calculators. It appears there are a lot of different ways to look at it. But here's my two eurocents.
I used to like building my paper models in 200 g/m2 paper. I still do sometimes. But I now often do stuff with 160 gram. This is I think an ideal weight, not too heavy, not too light and it is very flexible. I just use regular 160 gram printer paper, not specifically photo paper. A layer of satin varnish sprayed on when finished also gives a nice subtle gloss, seals the colour and protects it from UV light discolouring.

However, I love the quality of good photo paper, it adds a level of realism to your model. I think for a lot of subjects like cars and planes, satin gloss is the best because it isn't too glossy but still has that metal surface look. One of the disadvantages of most photo paper is that it is hard to glue because of the thin layers of surface coating it often has, even on the back. white PVA glue and even Aleene's glues won't bond with the paper easily. I often use sand paper to roughen up the areas that need to be glued together. Or I use CA. Besides, it sometimes is quite hard to bend and curve.

Matte photo paper does not have the gloss coating but it still is not the easiest to glue. But the detail in the print is fenomenal (as far as your printer settings and your printer can manage).
Further, the heavier the paper, the harder it is to bend without creasing.

If a model has bulkheads, they're there for a reason. No matter how heavy your paper of choice, you have got to use the bulkheads. Mostly, I print bulkheads on regular printer paper, glue it to cardboard (most cereal boxes will do great - keep a couple flattened in your stack) and cut them out. They're invisible most of the time so it doesn't matter how they look.

In the end it is what you like best, what works for you. Try out different sorts of paper once in a while. You might find for most subjects, 120-180 gsm does the trick.

[MichaelS]

Thank you all so much. Next time I am at the office supply store I will pick up a few different kinds. Also will start saving cereal boxes.

[rjccjr]

Hi Michael;
Have made many models over the years,some are large scale ships,some 1/72 aircraft. Have settled on using 110 pound 199 g/m2,acid free card stock from "Staples". All are printed with an ink jet printer. When the model is complete, it is over sprayed with Krylon semi matte finish. It waterproofs the model and gets rid of stray glue marks. The card stock is a bit heavier than cover stock, and when laminated for frames, is very strong.

Happy modeling, rjccjr

[Texman]

Regarding overspray with Krylon.

If you spray the parts lightly before assembly, it helps the ink to "set",
preventing smudges. It also allows "stray glue marks" to simply be
rubbed off the model.