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  #41  
Old 03-26-2018, 10:30 AM
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herky herky is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YOAVHOZMI View Post
Kevin....
I gave my permission to Chris to make canopies and sell them...You can talk to him

YOAV
yes he did mine for me with your ok.
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  #42  
Old 03-26-2018, 01:06 PM
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Papierschnitzel Papierschnitzel is offline
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Thanks for the PM's guys!
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  #43  
Old 03-28-2018, 12:38 AM
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Papierschnitzel - I forgot to say well done on fixing your gap issue.

At the end of the day that's the advantage of paper as a medium - you can always make a plan.

And the other thing is that these type of "issues" are part of the learning curve of becoming better at modeling. We all have them from time to time - I am doing a current build and also had a gap problem. Have a look here (not a plane though) and you will see you are not alone!

http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/619693-post13.html

That model is going to be really great when it's done - Yoav's artwork for the Israeli F15 is stunning and really brings the aircraft to life.
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  #44  
Old 03-28-2018, 03:52 AM
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Erik Zwaan Erik Zwaan is offline
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Your model looks great, you handle the small issues very well.

Regarding the canopy, in 2016 I built Yoav's Mirage and also dreaded the canopy moment. Chris is very kind to offer the canopies for Yoav's models but for me that didn't work as I rescaled the original 1:30 scale to 1:33, so 9% smaller. So I decided to build a small vacuum box myself. On YouTube there are a few good tutorials (I wasn't aware of Yoav's tutorial at the time), which inspired me to build a box from scratch. It wasn't that difficult. The only math I put into it was to ensure that the overall surface area of the holes on the vacuum plate matches the surface area of the vacuum cleaner hose nozzle, to avoid loosing "suction power".
In my experience the most time consuming aspect of the whole process is preparing the mould and to ensure a smooth shape, once you have a vacuum box. I used a table grill plate to heat up the plastic sheeting, trial and error but after two or three attempts I got a very satisfactory result. It's amazing how fast a canopy is formed this way, in just a split second. My wife was very concerned I would spoil her table grill but after she saw the result she only laughed. I can only guess what was going on in her mind at the time. Probably something like "men always remain boys, only with different toys".

So my conclusion is that doing the work yourself is really worth the effort! Good luck! Viel Erfolg Herr Papierschnitzel!

Cheers,
Erik
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  #45  
Old 03-28-2018, 06:44 AM
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Thanks for your feedback Erik - that's encouraging.

Clear plasticard? Thickness? Best Internet source? Or recommendations?
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  #46  
Old 03-28-2018, 10:22 AM
YOAVHOZMI YOAVHOZMI is offline
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From my personal experience, It is possible to take a canopy on a scale of 1:30 and use it for a 1:33 scale model, because the difference is negligible.
In addition, I create my canopies with big enough margins, so it covers the differences.

And the transparent canopies that Chris does, are based on the patterns of my canopies, so it comes out the same.


In the past, before I had a vacuum box , I used a transparent canopy of Mally in scale 1:33 for my F-4E Phantom 1:30 scale and it also came out fine.

YOAV
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  #47  
Old 03-28-2018, 10:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik Zwaan View Post
Your model looks great, you handle the small issues very well.

Regarding the canopy, in 2016 I built Yoav's Mirage and also dreaded the canopy moment. Chris is very kind to offer the canopies for Yoav's models but for me that didn't work as I rescaled the original 1:30 scale to 1:33, so 9% smaller. So I decided to build a small vacuum box myself. On YouTube there are a few good tutorials (I wasn't aware of Yoav's tutorial at the time), which inspired me to build a box from scratch. It wasn't that difficult. The only math I put into it was to ensure that the overall surface area of the holes on the vacuum plate matches the surface area of the vacuum cleaner hose nozzle, to avoid loosing "suction power".
In my experience the most time consuming aspect of the whole process is preparing the mould and to ensure a smooth shape, once you have a vacuum box. I used a table grill plate to heat up the plastic sheeting, trial and error but after two or three attempts I got a very satisfactory result. It's amazing how fast a canopy is formed this way, in just a split second. My wife was very concerned I would spoil her table grill but after she saw the result she only laughed. I can only guess what was going on in her mind at the time. Probably something like "men always remain boys, only with different toys".

So my conclusion is that doing the work yourself is really worth the effort! Good luck! Viel Erfolg Herr Papierschnitzel!

Cheers,
Erik
I do plan to make one of these vacuum boxes myself but right now I have quite a bit on my to do list to work off, so I might take up on the offer to just get the first one pre made. But I agree, making it yourself, you learn a lot and then have all the creative freedom you need.

I have made a little progress with the ejection seat but too little to show. It's end of the month and I am frantically working to get my regular project released. But I am looking forward to completing the seat soon!

Chris (Herr Papierschitzel)
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  #48  
Old 03-29-2018, 04:18 AM
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Erik Zwaan Erik Zwaan is offline
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Chris,

Here's the link to my build of Yoav's Mirage, in where I built my own vacuum box, along with some useful links.

Yoav's Mirage 3C 1:33 scale

@ Kevin WS: I have been using overhead sheet transparencies of I believe 100 micron thickness (0.1mm), obtainable via a local stationary shop. Also available are 50 micron sheets but I found them too thin for this purpose.

Cheers,
Erik
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  #49  
Old 03-29-2018, 06:24 AM
YOAVHOZMI YOAVHOZMI is offline
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i use 200 micron thickness.

I discovered that the 100 micron thickness are too soft and too gentle for my needs for 1:30 scale modesl, especially for large canopies as the F-4E, F-15 and the full bubble canopy of the F-16.

for little or short canopies and for 1:50 scale, i think that 100 micron is good.


YOAV
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  #50  
Old 03-29-2018, 08:35 AM
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airdave airdave is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik Zwaan View Post
The only math I put into it was to ensure that the overall surface area of the holes on the vacuum plate matches the surface area of the vacuum cleaner hose nozzle, to avoid loosing "suction power".
I believe I know the answer, but exactly how did you calculate this?
And is it better to have an equal area or less?
Is increased suction a posibility if the holes are less area than the vacuum nozzle?
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