#11
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Cheezuz... That kit is one complicated thing to get right!
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#12
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Well, with this wonderful build thread (which shamefully I do not have time for creating it myself ) it should become much more easy.
Big thanks, Ted Bruno |
#13
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Wow, a lot more complex than I thought it might be. Doing well.
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#14
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Most excellent progress so far.
__________________
MS “I love it when a plane comes together.” - Colonel John “Hannibal” Smith, A Team leader Long Live 1/100!! ; Live, Laff, Love... |
#15
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wings
thank you all for your kind words and encouragement. Bruno, these phantoms are fantastic. you just keep designing them, we'll figure them out. to all that have built some of Bruno's kits post a few build picks particular in the areas that have given you trouble, so we can collectively coach, (kibitzing from the old neighborhood).
on to the wings, these are really simple, just bigger. score the back end and fold it over. you should give the mid section a gentle curve to give the wing some depth. poke a hole at the outboard section of the wheel well if modeling gear down. give the forward/leading edges a fairly tight curve top and bottom part. also install the wing spar as shown, a tip is to place it a little back into the wing so when it goes up against the fuselage it doesn't get in the way. oh, score the outside portion of the wing, the phantom had these sections at a slight upward angle. I also crease along the sparrow gutter at the wing root. not completely needed but makes the finished product more realistic... |
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#16
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fuselage fwd sections
back from work. the next section is the fwd fuselage segments. the nose cones/radar covering are simple cone sections. they fair into the cockpit section. this piece is the cornerstone part to this section. on the underside of the kit is a dotted section. this needs to be scored. this makes the part attach to the center engine part. it transitions fwd to a gentle curve tightening at the end to a oval circular section to mate up with the nose cone... the inter section that mates the nose cone to the cockpit part has 2 scoops printed on the side. I cut out a spare section curved it to make the air scoops more detailed. don't forget to add some weight to the nose cone so that it sits upright on the fwd wheel section.
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#17
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aft fuselage.
the after parts are a little tricky. the key to these parts is proper scoreing and forming the curves. the main part and the one after that are formed the same. at the tip is a little cone, unfortunately I lost the pics of these after most parts...
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#18
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Outstanding tutorial.
Are you using 67# paper for these 1/100 models, or something lighter? Apologies if you have answered this already. I just read back through the Ki-61, P-40C AVG, and this thread and missed any reference to paper thickness. Don |
#19
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Don I use 67 lb paper. the neehnah brand, it is very bright and enhances the inkjet colors. I'm using a bailing wire and bubble gum held together canon pixma 4000 and refills from an on line company, inkjet 4 u I think. I used to refill these myself and couldn't stand the constant spills and stains.
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#20
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rudder canopy etc.
the rudder is a simple affair, score the forward part of the rudder and the little flap like parts at the base. I don't use the printed on tabs as they never seem to lay flat enough for me. But I use tabs. I use them to join the fuselage in particular as it lines the parts up nicely and adds longitudinal strength to the assembly, I just separate them and use them as joining strips. The M model had a large board like antennae the slips over the top of the rudder. some of these UK model antennae have small horizontal winglets that I attached later.
The canopy is a simple curve but once again I use small strips inside to join the bends so it presents a much smoother profile.... |
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