#11
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100% with you on the B-17 (all models) and the P-40 (AND P-36) plus the Polikarpov I-16 (I don't know why either- just love 'em).
__________________
''Oh, stop whining! Can't you just print off another one?''- my wife ca 2018 |
#12
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sounds like a great list my aussie mate. for some reason, I haven't really been caught up by any Russian or Japanese aircraft. the little mule does sort of appeal in an ugly brute sort of way. kinda like a flying bulldog.
anyways the D model has progressed so far. the parts are formed into their segments, wings have been folded over and formed. the fuselage segments are tall thin from the cockpit back, rolled tightly along the bottoms at the color demarcation line. the forward sections have a less tight roll along the lines and slightly oval top section. the landing gear has been formed, tightly rolled tubes with the wheels installed. the engine cooling vent is an upside down staple form with the folds tightly creased then the radiator front is installed. I separated the front from the part and laminated it one card thick, makes it hold its form better... |
#13
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These little 109's look great Ted. I have a couple of Bf 109 G-6 repaints I plan on sending to Ecardmodels tomorrow.
Brent |
#14
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good looking models
YOAV |
#15
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Very nice, are you planning going all the way to the Mules and the Buchones?
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#16
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PRE-FORMING. The most important (at least I think) key to a model that 'looks right'.
My bugbear is wingtips and wheels. Your wheels CMDRTED: can you give me a quick explain on why they look so good?
__________________
''Oh, stop whining! Can't you just print off another one?''- my wife ca 2018 |
#17
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thanks guys. wire and paper, I "plan" to go all the way. I find burnout sometimes hits around 7-8 sometimes. Brent, I wanted to do a G14 then change that to a K model. Bruno had a g14 in his old list, a gen 1. I may ask him if he still has it and order it from him (along with everything else he designs).
Rata just for you mate, (side note, do Australians mind being called mate from non aussies? my African friend hated me calling him brother, that's why I ask). anyhow the wheels start as doubled card stock. for smaller fighters I use @ 4 of these doubled parts. then I use the handy, albeit costly paper punch tool we found on ebay. shown pic 1. you use a good little hammer and give it a whack hard enough to punch thru in 1 go. too hard and the cone makes the wheels too small. too lite a strike is ok as long as it is consistent from wheel to wheel. the stack them. glue the stacks back to back and paint a blackish grey. |
#18
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phuzing the phuselage
next up is all those preformed parts. I do use connectors for these segments as it is easier to keep the various transitions between them. first is the little tail wheel. it begged to be separated and built up as shown. I started the fuselage with the prop hub and worked back. I phuzed the fwd parts, then the mid section as shown. the tail section was completed also but I'm saving that for a different way of doing tail feathers that is working pretty good. I added the prop hub as an integral part of the fuselage. I did this with the c model and thought it worked out ok.
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#19
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Mate, pal, buddy, knucklehead- whatever you like. Those hole punches- you would have to have a set of different sizes, yeah?
Sorry to divert too much from thread but to quote a famous individual: ''inquiring minds need to know''.
__________________
''Oh, stop whining! Can't you just print off another one?''- my wife ca 2018 |
#20
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Rata they come in different sizes. 2.5,3.0,3.5.4.0,4.5,5.0,5.5,6-7-8-9. no half sizes beyond 5.5 which is a pain. no worries about questions, you learn that way. it may be boring to some but I read most of the threads and continue to learn new things that I never thought of. kind of great forum for exchange of ideas.
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