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  #51  
Old 01-31-2019, 09:57 AM
YOAVHOZMI YOAVHOZMI is offline
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Amazing work ... very detailed model.

good for you.


YOAV
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  #52  
Old 01-31-2019, 10:39 AM
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Tonino Tonino is offline
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Wonderful detail and finishing level. It makes me want to start an Halinski right now... any subject...

And, talking about felt markers, I agree with you: the Tombow dual brush are the best choice for edge coloring in my experience too. HUGE choice of colors, not too much spreading (but you have to be fast: I confirm!) and the best "brush style" point I've ever seen. Perfect for fine detailing as well as for large areas.
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  #53  
Old 01-31-2019, 02:38 PM
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asaf asaf is offline
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So precise,
An inspiring construction process
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  #54  
Old 01-31-2019, 08:11 PM
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birder birder is offline
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Looks very nice, Ricardo. Nicely done. The paint scheme is interesting the red stripe doesn't look typical for a 109 does It? I'm always interested in how much structure Halinski kits include especially at the nose. Helpful to have laser cut formers I would think...( I'm too cheap to buy them ha)
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  #55  
Old 02-01-2019, 01:20 AM
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Erik Zwaan Erik Zwaan is offline
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Well, I'm also using the Tombow markers and indeed, they're great. Especially the set with all shades of grey. Very useful.

I have noticed though that if you treat the model sheets with a light coat of varnish (my experience only goes as far as applying the matt shade) before starting the building process, the pores of the paper get filled up, which strongly reduces, if not completely prevents, the spreading of marker ink. Varnishing also protects the print better against damage and it's easier to remove accidental glue spills, white paper glue or vinyl acetate based no difference.
A disadvantage of varnishing may be that the paper gets a bit stiffer and that white paper glue holds slightly lesser but if you only apply a very thin spray coat, these disadvantages are hardly noticeable. At least, I do not consider them as a problem. Fitting issues are the real pain in the butt.

As far as I know the Polish model publishers always advise a coat of varnish after the build, and that could be the final coat and then any disadvantage does not count anymore.

Perhaps give it a try on a scrap piece of paper?

Cheers,
Erik
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  #56  
Old 02-04-2019, 07:59 AM
ricleite ricleite is offline
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Thanks for the comments
@ Yoav - you know, recent Halinski kits are highly detailed. To my taste, more detail would start to be too much
@ Tonino - the problem with ink spreading relates mainly to delaminated paper. I always press the rough surface very hard to get it smoother and minimize the staining risk. The brush point is great but I find the other point too stiff. Good to write but bad to paint.
@ Glen - well, as many German planes sport colorful liveries, I don't know what can be regarded as typical or not. But it is certainly eye-catching. Not very coherent with the overall camouflage...
@ Erik - right! The greys are the ones I use most. It is a pity that they have discontinued a mid-gray. N77, if I'm not mistaken. Regarding varnish, I confess to have no experience and mixed feelings. I feel comfortable with no varnish and applying it would be an extra task. Hmm, maybe I should try, as you suggest

The wings have control surfaces both on the wing leading and trailing edges. They are modeled separately.
Attached Thumbnails
Bf 109T-2 / Halinski / 1/33-bf-109t-2-c067.jpg   Bf 109T-2 / Halinski / 1/33-bf-109t-2-c068.jpg   Bf 109T-2 / Halinski / 1/33-bf-109t-2-c069.jpg   Bf 109T-2 / Halinski / 1/33-bf-109t-2-c070.jpg   Bf 109T-2 / Halinski / 1/33-bf-109t-2-c071.jpg  

Bf 109T-2 / Halinski / 1/33-bf-109t-2-c072.jpg   Bf 109T-2 / Halinski / 1/33-bf-109t-2-c073.jpg  
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  #57  
Old 02-04-2019, 04:59 PM
Royaloakmin Royaloakmin is offline
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Personally I avoid any aftercoat. It can look bad, and an uniformly dull look isn't necessarily realistic.
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  #58  
Old 02-05-2019, 01:12 AM
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Erik Zwaan Erik Zwaan is offline
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Great details on the movable surfaces, even the small red tab on the ailerons with the "nicht anfassen" (do not touch) text. Nice!

Erik
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  #59  
Old 02-05-2019, 07:41 AM
ricleite ricleite is offline
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@ Fred - that's the point I'm far from convinced that the extra work is worth the better (?) look...
@ Erik - you mention a kind of detail where Halinski always does a great job!

As you know, I usually don’t buy the laser cut set. The parts take time to cut but that’s a kind of work that can be done anytime, a few minutes a day.
Attached Thumbnails
Bf 109T-2 / Halinski / 1/33-bf-109t-2-c074.jpg   Bf 109T-2 / Halinski / 1/33-bf-109t-2-c075.jpg   Bf 109T-2 / Halinski / 1/33-bf-109t-2-c076.jpg   Bf 109T-2 / Halinski / 1/33-bf-109t-2-c077.jpg   Bf 109T-2 / Halinski / 1/33-bf-109t-2-c078.jpg  

Bf 109T-2 / Halinski / 1/33-bf-109t-2-c079.jpg   Bf 109T-2 / Halinski / 1/33-bf-109t-2-c080.jpg   Bf 109T-2 / Halinski / 1/33-bf-109t-2-c081.jpg  
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  #60  
Old 02-06-2019, 07:39 AM
ricleite ricleite is offline
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Most of the times, I make changes to the way that the landing gear is attached to the wings. In this case, as the model is light and the wire penetrates the card structure a few millimeters, it should hold.
Attached Thumbnails
Bf 109T-2 / Halinski / 1/33-bf-109t-2-c082.jpg   Bf 109T-2 / Halinski / 1/33-bf-109t-2-c083.jpg   Bf 109T-2 / Halinski / 1/33-bf-109t-2-c084.jpg  
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