#21
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good work on the cockpit inside
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David........... Paper modelling gives you a happy high. currently building. c GAZ 51 ALG 17, wagon 111a. unex DH411 excavator and spitfire Mk 9 |
#22
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I am new to paper modelling. I usually build RC aircraft giant and micro.
Please excuse my ignorance, but what is being used to make the structural components of the cockpit thicker? It looks like the paper is "sandwiching" a thicker material in the middle. Again please excuse my ignorance of the craft. Thank you Don W |
#23
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The instructions usually say .5 mm card or 1 mm card. I usually use old cereal boxes which work out to .5 mm or there abouts. I laminate the card stock to them using a glue stick, and when I am being extra fancy I sand the printed side and glue that to the card which leaves the consistent color showing
Mike |
#24
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Quote:
It appears the kit pieces have been laminated to cereal box cardboard (or something similar) as Burning Beard mentioned. Kit pieces can also be laminated to other cardstock or multiple layers of cardstock or cardboard. Many of us keep stacks of cardboard we've scavenged from cereal boxes (and not all cereal boxes are created equal...) and any other piece of cardboard we come across that looks like it could serve a function at some point. My wife long ago grew accustomed to the look I get on my face when I'm closely examining a piece of cardboard to see if it'll be usable. I will say I've come across cereal made by an Australian company called Carman's that comes in a box that seems a hair sturdier than the average General Mills or Kellogg's box. |
#25
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Thanks for the comments
@ Don W - Both Mike and Dhanners gave good answers. I buy large sheets of 0,5mm and 0,8mm card (they are cheap) to use in the models. Halinski kits often require some parts with 0,2mm paper. They are all marked clearly in the kit parts. I use 0,8mm instead of 1,0mm in order to have some room to maneuver. Feel free to put any question The fine color scheme is already apparent in the center fuselage. The fit was just fine. |
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#26
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Nice progress, fuse looks good so far too. Pretty work
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regards Glen |
#27
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Attractive looking camo! The cardboard thickness you apply to reinforce the formers is spot on. Usually the instructions call for using 1mm thick cardboard. It’s my experience that you should use slightly thinner board, such as 0.8-0.9mm thickness. Rather read it as “the total thickness to be 1mm”. Especially when having to glue those small tabs in the former slots such a small difference in thickness really makes a difference! For 0.5mm thick board it doesn’t make that much difference. Halinski, Orlik and the like use 0,15-0.2mm thick paper so that’s why. Sometimes you read in the instructions that parts have to be laminated with “brystolem” or something (indicated with a +). I recently learned from a Polish colleague that this word is derived from the town of Bristol in the UK, and is used to indicate a type of paper with a thickness of 0.15-0.2mm. So it simply means to double the particular part with scrap paper!
Cheers, Erik |
#28
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Thanks, Glen and Erik
Just to add to Erik's information, the ordinary paper that I use for the wheels (80g/m2) comes out at 0,112mm, or so. I made a roll from a veeeery long paper strip and measured the diameter to get two solid digits a a probable third... The fuel tank is typical on Halinski kits of German planes. Inner and outer parts are drawn with unaligned joints, so that there is no need for tabs. |
#29
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good work on the fuel tank
__________________
David........... Paper modelling gives you a happy high. currently building. c GAZ 51 ALG 17, wagon 111a. unex DH411 excavator and spitfire Mk 9 |
#30
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Thanks, David
The horizontal tail follows Halinski’s usual style: many parts, quite a lot of work but an easy assembly and all the ingredients to get the shapes right. |
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1/33, bf 109t-2, halinski |
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