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  #11  
Old 08-27-2019, 06:57 AM
Falco Falco is offline
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Photos are worth a 1000 words but for this thread they are worth a million... I have been dying to see how you build them so well and this is a real treat for many of us here.
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  #12  
Old 08-27-2019, 07:29 AM
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Rata Rata is offline
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Thanks Falco. I'll post some more tomorrow.
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Old 08-27-2019, 08:27 AM
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gomidefilho gomidefilho is offline
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Awesome tutorial my friend! Glad to see you techniques!
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  #14  
Old 08-27-2019, 11:38 AM
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scissorsandplanes scissorsandplanes is offline
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Even with my many years of experience at this scale, I'm "glued" to your tutorial.

thanks for the priceless information.

B
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  #15  
Old 08-27-2019, 02:01 PM
Gene K Gene K is offline
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It would be great if some of the other Masters would do similar tutorial threads!!!

Thanks,

Gene K
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  #16  
Old 08-28-2019, 11:09 PM
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Rata Rata is offline
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Thanks Pericles and Bruno. And I appreciate the title 'Master' Gene! Up until the only thing I was a Master at was making a mess.

One aspect of paper model designs I'm always in awe of is the way designers come up with different curvature on two mating edges to produce the shapes and contours. Bruno is no exception to this and the emerging scale lines of this model are becoming more apparent.
Radial engine cowlings are always tricky and I've noticed Bruno has moved away from his old way of having the front of cowl flush with a relief image of the engine on it to an open front with engine set back inside which I suppose is more scale. To me, in 1/100 both are acceptable but both can still be challenging to construct and end up with things being round where they should be!
For the older method the very front part I keep as a single layer and attach as is to pre-scored shark's teeth tabs around the cowl's edge. The inset engine (as here) benefits from laminating the engine plate before cutting out onto 1mm or so card so it's got better edge gluing area.
The cowl rings I do as shown, with small spot gluing bottom, then top and then gently squeezing to expose the 'shark's teeth' tabs on the rest of it.
I leave an excess of 1 or 2 mm around the edge when cutting out the laminated engine plate then trimming down by trial and error. You can see how I've blue tacked the engine to a bit of flat end dowel to help maneuver it into place from the back of the cowl. I don't go too crazy with glue here because from experience flooding too much around the edge will distort the outside of cowl ( or fuselage) giving it an unsightly 'starved rib' look. Small spot dabs on four points is usually enough to hold. Allow to dry then twisting the dowel back and forth will get the Blu Tack to let go.
On this model the cowl slides over the forward fuselage nicely and checking your scale drawings will show how far back it needs to go.
Th down side of inset engines is the white paper showing on the inside of the cowl. If this bothers you (it certainly does this over-fussy bugger) before the separate engine crank-case parts go on (which I forgot to do here) I CAREFULLY paint with a small brush the offending white areas with black or other scale colour. If like me you're an acrylic paint person then don't go silly with amount of paint because you know what too much water-based anything does to paper! The last photo is a bit of a jump ahead because you can see the fin attached which I'll cover tomorrow but shows the finished cowl and engine.
Thanks for viewing and more tomorrow.
Attached Thumbnails
How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9561.jpg   How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9562.jpg   How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9563.jpg   How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9564.jpg   How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9565.jpg  

How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9566.jpg   How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9567.jpg   How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9568.jpg   How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9569.jpg   How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9579.jpg  

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  #17  
Old 08-29-2019, 01:00 AM
YOAVHOZMI YOAVHOZMI is offline
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Very nice explanations and work

YOAV
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  #18  
Old 08-29-2019, 06:53 AM
Falco Falco is offline
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You know looking at your photos clears a lot of the fog I had in my mind about how you get such good results. I used to think that you just wave a wand and the kit magically get's assembled flawlessly. looking at your process made me realize your best trick is "patience". I know you said somewhere in another post that you always give 100% to every kit and now it's starting to make sense to me... I gotta ditch my "quick and dirty" approach for a "slow and methodical" approach.
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  #19  
Old 08-29-2019, 07:42 AM
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Thanks YOAV and Falco.

Falco, I do sometimes curse myself for being overly fussy, but being so is just a habit I can't break. I simply cannot put down and walk away from a model that I'm not happy with and believe I can fix. At the end of the day if others can look at and say they like what I do then I guess it's worth it.
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  #20  
Old 08-30-2019, 12:22 AM
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Most joiner tabs on the tail surfaces of small models like this I usually remove. A third layer of 100gsm paper on what should be a thin trailing edge to me doesn't look right. Wings being larger are different and I'll talk about those later.
You can see in the photos I cut them out leaving a bit on the tips. I then line each side up and while holding the trailing edge firm, and making sure there's a gap at the leading edge, brush small droplets of PVA across (not along) one edge. I then run the 'vee' of thumb and forefinger tips along the edge a few times till it holds, always checking that it's straight and true. Flip it over and do the same on the rear edge. If I've been careful and sparing with the glue there should be only a mm or so of bonded area along each edge.
Leave the tip for now, and gently squeezing the glued edges, make it open out (may need to CAREFULLY put your scalpel blade in and twist it to get it started) and squeeze just hard enough to make it stay like that. This gives it a bit of scale thickness plus makes it a lot more rigid. Temporarily inserting a toothpick or similar will help maintain the shape while you do the tips. Just trim with sharp scissors around the tip and if you've lined up both sides properly earlier, should be rewarded with both sides of the tip with matching edges.
Sliding the toothpick in further will open up the unglued tip and again brush glue ACROSS the gap, slide back the toothpick and both sides should come together. I not, gently massage around the edge with fingertips.
Bruno drew a small fairing at the base of the fin on this one, but try as I might I couldn't coax it to 'flare' out enough to sit properly on the top of the fuselage. I ended up just trimming the bottom edge straight and it went on without complaint.
Then spot gluing each bottom corner of the fin and (as always) checking for trueness, I brushed a thin 'bead' of PVA along the base- one of the other things I like about runny glues is being able to this. PVA shrinks a little like most evaporative adhesives and fills small gaps nicely.
On edge painting, as I said earlier I use acrylic. I had a lot of aeromodelling paints left from my plastic days so I'm using them up before I buy any more.
If you've not chosen another method of edge colouring and will be starting from scratch with your paint collection, those cheap artist's acrylics in tubes are perfectly adequate for our purposes. Buying a basic range sees you being able mix up a bit and match any colour you need. Good quality small modelling brushes are a must however. I have sizes #00 through to #2.
If I already have a matching colour (in this case Tamiya XF-12 J.N.Grey is VERY close) I edge paint as I go along. Otherwise I leave it all to the end so I only to mix one lot.
Thanks for watching and will continue tomorrow,
Attached Thumbnails
How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9570.jpg   How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9571.jpg   How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9572.jpg   How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9573.jpg   How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9574.jpg  

How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9575.jpg   How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9576.jpg   How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9577.jpg   How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9580.jpg  
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