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  #51  
Old 09-05-2019, 07:19 AM
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Rata Rata is offline
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Wish granted Falco.
The Ki-27 is a fairly typical WWII single engine monoplane so this thread so far covers a lot of similar types. Things like multi engine and multi wing types will need to covered too. So what I planned to do was whenever I build one those I was going to re-visit this thread to explain features peculiar to them.
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  #52  
Old 09-05-2019, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
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that's one good looking p40 sir well done
Cheers rifleman!
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  #53  
Old 09-05-2019, 08:26 AM
tigertony100 tigertony100 is offline
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Thanks a lot Rata!!!! You've cleared two of my Nemesis into Bruno's planes:cockpit and fairings. I abandoned my T-33's by a whole year because the cockpits ended curved as bananas. I´m wondering how your technics will work on Jets Airplanes. Regards,Tony.
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  #54  
Old 09-05-2019, 04:33 PM
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Thanks Tony. Even if this tutorial helps only one person then it was worth it.

Oddly enough, jets are the models I seem to have the most trouble with. I haven't done one for a while (apart from the free S&P MiG-15's in downloads) but when I do I'll include it in this thread.
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  #55  
Old 09-05-2019, 04:44 PM
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Butelczynski Butelczynski is offline
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For me jets are a combination of tubes,cones and ductwork+ wings and control surfaces.

They are easy,hard part I found was attaching wings and control surfaces to fuselage in correct position since they are of a lot thinner profile than prop planes.Last one I did I think I used card spar+ thin wire.

Big plus with jets-no wing fairings but that also means I have to match wing to exact location in the first bang.Something for something.
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  #56  
Old 09-06-2019, 12:12 AM
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Wheel fairings or spats. Whatever you want to call them, they can be tricky to do in 1/100. I've found that the pink or purple join tab lines that Bruno gives us more often that not are more of a 'suggestion' to give you, the builder, an idea as to how to join two parts. He hasn't done this with the wheel fairings on this model, so it's up to you how to deal with it. Experience should tell you that because of the curved nature of the front and rear faces that small 'shark's teeth' joiner tabs will be in order. Keep them down to a minimum, only using what you need to get the shape of the fairing.
You can see I've drawn two on each side, front and rear. Pre shape the ends as usual then each tab at a time work through one side of the fairing then the other. Touching up with paint will be easier done when they're on the model.

The legs are a three piece affair (again with no tabs), as to how they go together becoming obvious after studying the drawings. They neatly slide into each like on the full size.

For no particular reason, I decided to construct each fairing/leg combination first and fit each as a unit.

To get the right fore and aft angle (or 'rake') when viewed from the side, I needed to trim the top of each leg. It still wasn't enough without removing more than I wanted to, so after putting a dob of PVA on the attachment point under the wing to soften the paper, I knurled it with my burnishing tool to make a sort of impression which helped a lot in getting the final result.

Comparison with the drawings showed I ended up pretty close. A 'lick-o-paint' and they were done.

The wheels themselves tomorrow.
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  #57  
Old 09-09-2019, 12:40 AM
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Other builders get good results from laminating layers to get the required thickness for their wheels. Usually this involves sanding the tread to get a rounded and realistic appearance. I have tried this method but unfortunately the PVA glue I use doesn't sand but if you're one of those builders getting good results this way then keep doing it- when done well these wheels always look better than the 'box' types I'm about to describe.
You can use the 'shark's teeth' tab method to construct wheels but I prefer to do the following. Without tabs there is edge gluing so to give these edges a bit of thickness I laminate another layer under after removing the joiner tab on the 'tread' part as shown. This avoids the four thickness lump at the join point. One tip for beginners is when using a blade and steel rule for cutting straight edges ALWAYS have the part itself UNDER the steel rule. This applies to things like struts on biplanes too.
After joining the ends of the tread part, slide it onto a tapered shaft like a medium size paintbrush handle and press around it with finger tip to get it as round as possible.
Using the trusty Blu Tack, put each wheel side part on the end of a dowel so it's aesier to handle when gluing.
After the wheel is constructed leave it on the dowel and paint out the white edges with matching paint. Most S&P tyres are black which makes life easier.
One of the advantages of wheel fairings is if there's a part of the wheel you're not happy with, you can hide the offending bit inside the fairing.
On this model the wheels are a snug fit which makes positioning much easier. Before the glue sets check the model sits level and adjust either or both wheels accordingly.
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  #58  
Old 09-10-2019, 09:09 PM
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On to the tailplane (or horizontal stabilizer to some ). This is one of those parts of the build I leave till towards the end for two reasons: 1) it decreases the risk of damage by clumsiness and 2) getting alignment and 'squareness' right by using the already attached wings as a guide.

Some types like the MB.152, Douglas A-20 and A-26 and the later Bristol Beaufighters have dihedral on their tailplanes. Keep a watchful eye on your refences and get that angle right.

Like the fin/rudder, on a small model like this I dispense with the fold over tabs and cut the four components out as is again leaving a 'handling tab' on the tips which is trimmed and glued after assembly but (again like the fin) before the tailplane halves are actually joined to the fuselage.

Generally speaking, on most straight wing (i.e. unswept like jets) types the elevator hinge lines on each side are aligned with each other. I'm surprised at the amount of times on both paper and plastic models when dry fitting I've found this not to be the case. It's no big problem to deal with; just trim off small angled bits of the tailplane root until correct.

The Ki-27 is an example of the more common zero dihedral tailplane types so while the glue's setting check from all angles and adjust accordingly.

We're nearly there with this build and on to the small finishing details like tailwheel, prop and aerials next. Thanks for viewing.
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  #59  
Old 09-11-2019, 01:33 AM
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Quote:
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Thanks for viewing.
Still viewing with much interest.

thanks for showing
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  #60  
Old 09-11-2019, 04:43 AM
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Glad you're still there B-man!
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