#61
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Now to apply the lessons learned... I have this kit and I will build it following all your recommendations in this thread except at 1/50 scale.
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#62
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Wonderful tutorial! I am cutting and pasting these guidelines into a document I can follow as I build. Well illustrated and written, a talent that goes beyond "common" building abilities! Thank you for the insights and sharing!
Mike
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Some of my models-GreMir IJN URANAMI, 1/100 sc for R/C. S&P, Kampfflieger, etc. "Yellow Wings" in 1/200. (Practice builds at the moment!) Lunar Orbital Station "FORT APACHE". |
#63
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Thanks so much for your positive comments Falco and Mike. Glad you're getting something out of it.
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''Oh, stop whining! Can't you just print off another one?''- my wife ca 2018 |
#64
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I see that for the most part I'm building small models much the same way,you can make wheel only in so many ways
I could add few of my differences and additions if you don't mind,I would have to snap some pictures of what I mean. Excellent tutorial. |
#65
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Thank you Garry, you're very talented. Great work, thank you for sharing the tutorial.
Gary
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"Fast is fine, but accuracy is everything" - Wyatt Earp Design Group Alpha https://ecardmodels.com/vendors/design-group-alpha |
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#66
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Thanks Gary. Go ahead and post Karol- I think it's important we're exposed to as many ways of doing things as possible.
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''Oh, stop whining! Can't you just print off another one?''- my wife ca 2018 |
#67
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Spectacular Garry tutorial, this will be very useful for many. I said it before, the biggest difference I appreciate is the skill you have.
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#68
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Cheers Sergio!
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''Oh, stop whining! Can't you just print off another one?''- my wife ca 2018 |
#69
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Getting close to the end now. Things like aerials, prop blades and tail skids are the 'fiddly bits' and while certainly important, should be left till last because often they're the first to be damaged or knocked off by accidental mishandling.
To me, tailwheels and skids on these small models look quite satisfactory as simple two sided parts. Fortunately most designers agree on this and provide them on the design as such! I always laminate them around 1mm or so card for added strength. One would think it should be just a simple matter to cut out the part as drawn and after folding down the middle wrap it over the edge of the card. Getting them aligned on both sides in my experience however is hit and miss. Usually miss! I've found I have better luck if I separate them and after glueing one side to the card, cut a common edge on each. This edge is the alignment edge for when I stick the other side to the card. Just doing one edge leaves handling tabs which are cut off together later. The photos should give an idea as to what I'm getting at. With this method there's far more hits than misses! BTW, that tailwheel is from another model. I did it here to demonstrate. Aerial masts need laminating with three, maybe four layers for better rigidity. Nuff said. Most prop hubs involve rolling in some form or another. Rolling is one of those tricky things that's hard to describe 'how'. Consistent success can only really be gained by practice. I have a selection of various gauge wires as shown and one piece of advice I can offer is for really narrow rolled parts, start off doing on a thicker gauge wire and the work your way down. This 'softens' the paper and I've found makes achieving those narrow parts more attainable. The little 'cap' piece that is usually drawn attached, I remove and add after rolling the other part. Cutting out this often miniscule 'cap' is easier by a series of stabbing cuts around the edge with the hobby knife. When cut out don't sneeze on it 'cos you'll never see it again. I really like how the front end (last pic) turned out on this model: Bruno you're a genius. The prop blades themselves next.
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''Oh, stop whining! Can't you just print off another one?''- my wife ca 2018 |
#70
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I really think most of the genius in the result is due to your building skills.
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