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Old 08-26-2019, 07:54 AM
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How I Build a 1/100 Model

Some members wanted to know how I go about building my 1/100 models. This thread will be a detailed look from start to finish on a build of the S&P Nakajima Ki-27 'Nate' that Bruno recently released. This particular Nate is one of my repaints so this will be a test build as well.
None of the following thread will be a 'this is how you should do this or that'; it's purely a demonstration of how I put a model together. If you think some of my techniques and ideas are worth sharing, please say so. On the other hand if you see something you think is dumb, I'd like to hear that as well.

My choice of glue is, was, and probably always will be PVA or white glue. I've found the proper builder's quality stuff works best- it dries hard and strong. The craft type ones that I've tried are nowhere near as good. I water it down to the consistency of runny cream and apply with small hobby paintbrushes. All my models are laser printed so are a lot more resistant to any accidental excess of glue. I have built ink-jet printed models with the same watered down glue, but had to be a lot more careful when applying.
I invested (wasn't too expensive) in a pair of Titanium scissors. They're brilliant. Comfortable and SHARP. Worth the money.
No matter what subject I'm building, I always have at least a small 3-view general arrangement drawing for reference. Absolutely vital for getting dihedral, struts and other angles correct. Most of the 3-views I have are from old books and magazines that I've collected over decades of modelling. Anything I don't have can be found and printed off the internet within minutes. So there's really no excuse for the ''I wasn't sure what it looked like''.
Attached Thumbnails
How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9539.jpg   How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9543.jpg   How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9552.jpg   How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9540.jpg   How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9541.jpg  

How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9542.jpg  
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Old 08-26-2019, 08:55 AM
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Looking forward to seeing more...
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Old 08-26-2019, 12:33 PM
Falco Falco is offline
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All good stuff... looking forward to this "how to".
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Old 08-26-2019, 01:41 PM
tigertony100 tigertony100 is offline
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Technic and secrets revealed!!! Thanks for share it wit us. I think next post will relate with the kind of paper. Best Regards and we eagerly await your next post. Tony.
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Old 08-26-2019, 10:31 PM
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watching
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Old 08-26-2019, 10:56 PM
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Must have read my mind Tony! As I've said in previous threads I get my models printed at my local Officeworks. I used to print at home on my Canon inkjet on standard 80gsm cartridge paper and while certainly convenient, got sick of replacing expensive colour ink cartridges. Officeworks printing has a number of advantages- laser print, 100gsm satin paper, pretty good value at 69c per A4 and if they bugger up a print job they have to replace it at they're expense. I usually wait till I've got 6 or 7 models tp print out so I'm not making the trip for single model.
The 100gsm paper they use is of almost photograph quality and really makes a difference especially with models of larger multi-engine types. If I ever start printing at home again it will be on 100gsm paper.
Back to the model, for no particular reason I always start with the fuselage. Anyone who's familiar with S&P knows Bruno puts pink or purple join tabs on his designs. I think they're intended as more of a suggestion than a rigid building rule. I used to do separate joiner tabs a-la-Nobi, but now I cut the part out with the tabs and do most joins as overlaps. I still do the Nobi series of small cuts and for more angled joins (as on the cowl ring here) do 'shark teeth' after scoring the edge.
One of the reasons I use PVA is the very fast way it holds two parts together. A few seconds holding still with fingers or tweezers usually does the trick. If I can apply pressure to it(fingertips or square edge tweezers) the bond is almost instantaneous. I rarely have to use clamps even though I do have a set.
Gluing small bits at a time seems to get the most accurate results for me. As on the main fuselage ring (I always start the fuse in the middle and alternate towards each end) I've put a small dob of PVA at one end to hold; one at the other end and then gently squeezing the part on the sides to open up the remaining seam, brush PVA along the inside and gently press along the seam with fingertips while supporting the part with something solid (dowel, hobby scalpel handle etc) from the inside. I've found doing seams this way helps avoid the unsightly inward 'bowed' look.
The little join tabs around each edge I bend inward slightly with square end tweezers to assist getting the next segment to go over and then again with small glue applications starting at bottom, the top and then the sides. Again, gently squeezing the join helps expose the unglued sections so I can brush a small line of glue. More later.
Attached Thumbnails
How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9551.jpg   How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9553.jpg   How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9554.jpg   How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9555.jpg   How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9556.jpg  

How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9557.jpg   How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9558.jpg   How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9559.jpg   How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9560.jpg  
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Old 08-27-2019, 12:24 AM
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Very nice Rata, I will follow closely
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Old 08-27-2019, 05:19 AM
Falco Falco is offline
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It's sooooooooo nice to see the master at work on these little gems! safe to say I am taking more notes on this than I ever did in my school years.
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Old 08-27-2019, 06:21 AM
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Thank you so much for doing this thread, Garry. I have no experience in 1/100, and am very interested. I appreciate the details that you're providing as well.

Gary
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Old 08-27-2019, 06:53 AM
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Thanks all for expressing interest here. Sometimes I battle to find the right words so I'm hoping the photos will convey at least part of what I'm trying to tell. If at any stage you're not sure about anything please don't hesitate to ask.
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