#11
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Many thanks for publishing the image and sharing your experiences as you work through this build. We are all going to learn a lot from this thread.
I regret that I have no advice to offer, but hope that other, more skilled and experienced paper modelers will weigh in. Don |
#12
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It looks to me that the wing box formers are oversize for the opening in the center skin, I would much rather undersize if no wheel well as is not that important as the skin for the appearance of the model. I usually join the paper skin sections first and then put in the formers and the skin join can be lots cleaner that way, just the way I do things, things get easier though through experimentation so the way you like to do things may be very different from mine...
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regards Glen |
#13
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Thanks Birder. If the formers are oversize that isn't my doing, I cut them out right on the line. Many strokes, the first being the lightest and most careful. The fuselage barrel pieces, well they don't exactly match, which is entirely on me. I see now the oft repeated advice to dry fit 1000 times is also beneficial in actually working the paper to a final fit. The more you futz with it the better the fit seems to get.
Since precise cutting is the root cause of some of my woes, I decided to upgrade the tools somewhat. I had been cutting on a scrap of 1/2 ply. I think the grain may have been trying to steer my blade where it wasn't supposed to go. I went to Walmart and asked the nice lady in the sewing dept for a cutting mat and got a fine one for 6 bucks. A retractable blade cutter with the small blade was $7. I cut the mat to fit the board and lightly hot glued it in place. The foam piece for rolling is way stiffer than it looks and depresses about as like a good quality mouse pad. I supported one edge fully and left about an inch overhanging the end edge so I could get more give for any really serious rolling. sp |
#14
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As another tip, the white wingroot where the wings attach is not visible when you complete the model, so you can slice that part open lengthwise in order to gain some extra length to bridge whatever gaps you have at the bottom, at the side, or elsewhere.
Maybe your cutting isn't to blame though, the earlier models that are designed digitally has a tendency to not make provisions for the skin thickness, i.e. their formers are a little larger than they should be. Oversized formers cause much more issues than underfitting ones so you might need to trim more than what the model tells you. Again, do plenty of dry-fits to catch any issues early, preferably before you actually need to resort to such drastic solutions. As a designer, we try to make the model precise, but as a modeller, one should never trust the designer :P
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"The world is big" On hold: Fuyuzuki, Zao, Zara, Akizuki, Past works: XP55 Ascender, CA Ibuki, Seafang F32, IS-3, Spitfire V, J-20 |
#15
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Well that 'splains it. I had to take somewhere between 1/64 and 1/32 off the rounded bottom of the former at the rear of the cockpit section. I got a much better fit out of the two new pieces I printed and cut.
I am waiting until everything, (painted edges and some glue), dries fully then the two rear barrels get glued. Then it is on to the Thanks for the tips Lex. sp |
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#16
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Took most of the afternoon and evening but I got the engine and ring cowl done. A first on both for me. There are a few more little stickey-outie thingies to fold and paste on the fuselage. Been purposely not rushing because I am undecided on how to do the rigging and that will best be incorporated into the wing before it is folded and glued.
sp |
#17
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Looks good, Steven!
Don |
#18
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Always sand formers to fit the skin. Use nail files or other fine sandpaper, you can sand any “flash” off.
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Fred Bultman |
#19
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This is only my second card airplane and the first with a round fuselage. It is also the first this far along. (Just needs rigging now.)
My attempts at sanding cardboard backed former pieces were less effective than I would have liked. Seems the edges just spread out wider rather than actually loose material. Is that normal with this stuff? I am wondering if some thin CA judiciously applied along the edges would harden them up enough to sand or am I using too coarse a grit sandpaper? Thanks for mentioning this Fred. I was about to make myself a rule to avoid round cross section fuselages in the future. Here she is at present lacking only rigging, which I am still cogitating over. sp |
#20
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I'd be happy if my models turned out to look this good, Steven.
Don |
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