Question about coatings

[smp]

I am about to start my first Printed Paper Card kit, (as opposed to an e-file I print). I prefer not to offend our Polish members by attempting to reproduce the company name. The model is a 1:33 Airco DH.2.


My question is: Should I spray a coating on the parts pages?


If Yes, will Krylon clear work?


Thanks
sp

[Damraska]

I started a thread on the same subject a few weeks ago:

What spray are you currently using to seal your card models?

You will find no consensus. I recommend printing a test sheet and spraying that to see what happens before you risk a booklet kit.

Edit: Please note that Krylon makes many differed clear coats so 'will Krylon work' does not contain enough information to offer a good answer. A Matte will produce different results than a Semi-Gloss will produce different results than a Gloss. Acrylics, Enamels, and Lacquers all have different working properties. I believe all Krylon clear coats use Acrylic binders but they may have other stuff available.

Do not spray on a very humid day. The clear coat will seal water droplets in the air into the film coat as it dries and frost. Some clear coats will produce 'dust' on dry days because the spray particles dry in the air before hitting the sheet, again producing frosting. Spraying closer to the sheet can prevent that. Again, spray a test sheet and experiment before you commit on the actual model.

Edit Edit: In my experience, model company executives enjoy seeing their company name and products on sites like this one as build-ups, picture galleries, and reviews because they provide free advertising. Well, they enjoy such things unless the modeler strongly dislikes the kit. I would never even consider asking a question, posting a build-up, publishing a gallery, or writing a review without fully disclosing the name of the model company and often the name of the retailer. This also helps people reading or viewing the post to find the model if they like what they see.

Good luck!

[tigertony100]

It´s recommended that you finished first the entire model, then spray an even coat of Krylon. If you first spray the printed sheets, then the glue may be difficult to die or take more time to set. Lucky guy you're, I can't find Krylon here in my country (Mexico) which by the way is the better product. Regards, Tony.

[airdave]

Krylon also makes a line of artist specific sprays.
Things like Fixatives generally used for pencil, ink and charcoal drawings, but they work as sealers.
They also have a line of fixatives and preservatives for photographs and for inkjet printing.
Look for them in artists and craft stores

The Krylon artist products might be a little more expensive but simpler to use.
You don't need to apply a lot and they won't make gluing a problem since they aren't anything like heavy glossy clearcoats.

If you want a shine or sheen, there are various "clearcoats" from krylon that you could try.
I prefer something with little or no gloss.

I also use Lacquer clearcoats since they are cheap and quick dry.
But I spray only 1-3 very light coats and avoid any buildup that would create a gloss.
I've not had a problem with gluing the clearcoated surfaces (using PVA glues).

I seal my sheets before I cut parts.

I have sprayed finished models, but only lightly.
It can help strengthen colours and make things more vibrant.
You can also add a sheen, but its hard to be consistent across all the surfaces.
And sometimes there are areas that you don't want clearcoated, so that can be tricky too.

[mbauer]

Originally Posted by smp

I am about to start my first Printed Paper Card kit, (as opposed to an e-file I print). I prefer not to offend our Polish members by attempting to reproduce the company name. The model is a 1:33 Airco DH.2.


My question is: Should I spray a coating on the parts pages?


If Yes, will Krylon clear work?


Thanks
sp

Best to do some testing, scrap card, print a test page. Spray, let dry then work the test page, cut the part out, form and glue. Did the coating peel off around the folds? Will your choice of glue stick to it? Might have to use masking tape on the tabs if this happens or find a different coating.

A few years ago bought some liquid that would allow you to run almost anything through an inkjet printer. Found some chrome mirror wall paper with sticky back.

Used a brush to apply the coating, then ran the wall paper through my wide format printer.

F104 Starfighter looked great.

Parts were cut, formed into shape and glued. PVA glue would not stick, superglue would for a day or two then start popping off with chunks of the coating. Decided that re-printing wasn't worth it. Later on thought of the masking tape idea.


Mike

[smp]

Thanks y'all
I gathered there was no real consensus, I was looking to see if there were any major "Don't Dos" to look out for.
Thx
sp