#31
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Thanks Ray and Olo!
Olo: Tell your pal they are amazing. I was pretty pleased with my seams...then I saw the ones you posted. Holy Hannah! That is just so perfect. Well done. And thanks for the meaning of WPS. I sort of figured that since the words were almost the same as the little scissors motif. Still plugging (cutting?) away! Dan |
#32
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[QUOTE=smithdr;729025]Thanks Ray and Olo!
Olo: Tell your pal they are amazing. I was pretty pleased with my seams...then I saw the ones you posted. Holy Hannah! That is just so perfect. Well done. And thanks for the meaning of WPS. I sort of figured that since the words were almost the same as the little scissors motif. Dont get me wrong your model looks great ,I was just trying to explain why I am telling you to use lighter colors, and the best way is to see it
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Passion is the key.... |
#33
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Don't worry, Olo. I like the suggestions from folks who know how to do these well! So any help is gladly accepted.
Dan |
#34
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Some more. So far, the only real mess up is the top scoop. Live and learn and with a little touch-up, it'll be ok. I am pleased with the chin, which I thought would be a nightmare as well as the turtle deck behind the cockpit. Not too darn shabby. Not Polish yet but I'm getting there.
Still having fun...Dan |
#35
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A true beauty, and such good alignment in the sharkmouth!
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#36
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nice build an good photos well done
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#37
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A great tutorial, Nicely done Sir.
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#38
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Amazing work Dan. I don't know what you mean by "the only real mess up is the top scoop"? There definitely doesn't seem to be any mess up anywhere. The front fuselage has a pretty complex shape, and it looks great.
Gary
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"Fast is fine, but accuracy is everything" - Wyatt Earp Design Group Alpha https://ecardmodels.com/vendors/design-group-alpha |
#39
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I built the Paper Aircraftwerks model of the that plane. It is interesting to see how different designers approach the same problem.
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#40
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Hi Dan, your progress is great and so is your model! Yes, I do use the same method of first connecting two skin segments and only then to install the former.
I prefer to use white glue for this (but be careful, it takes practicing) as it slightly wets the paper, making it easier to mold and fuse the seam until it's practically invisible (well, in the ideal situation). Always be careful with applying white glue as the moist in the glue will make the paper expand a bit, which can ruin the fit. I fully concur with Tom (Olo) - which is another perfectly built Tomahawk - to use lighter edge colors than the print itself. This also helps to mask the seams. By speaking of edge coloring, one of the reasons why I usually spray a light coat of varnish on the model sheets before starting to cut and build, is that the varnish tends to slightly plug up the paper structure, by which flowing of the marker is prevented. The use of light grey as general edge color always works fine! Cheers, Erik |
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