#41
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Hello Tom, Isaac, David and Llaut Mallorquin, thanks for your suggestions regarding the corrections.
Note that the gap between the light green parts is as intended, and will be fully covered by the central section of the wings. The small gap between the white/black underside is indeed something I expect to correct easily, by thinner paper. It will done after installation of the transition skins between wings and fuselage. I'm not sure if this is the right English nomenclature for "vloeistukken" as we would call them. Again, not something to worry about and don't get fouled by the extreme close-up pictures, as you can see when I put a ruler next to it. The gap is really not wider than 0.5 millimeter! Tom, regarding the glue I'm using: Both acetate based (UHU and similar) and water based (white glue). For smaller parts I use white glue and for larger areas, such as for attaching the outside skins to the inside ones, acetate based glue is better, as it will not affect the paper (no water). I always used to lightly varnish the model sheets before starting to cut to protect the print during handling but I've become a bit hesitant about that, since building the birds collection before starting the Spitfire. Varnish blocks the pores, which affects the strength of the bond when using white glue, as wherever possible I prefer the use of white glue over acetate based glue. For models with a superb print quality, such as Halinski, there is in fact no need to varnish upfront. To close small gaps between e.g. fuselage sections I use construction glue, which is a kind of water soluble putty (when it has not been dried yet), that can be rubbed in the gap, and the excess can be simply wiped of with a wetted finger. Application with the tip of a wooden skewer requires care and a bit of practice, but the result is a virtually invisible joint. If required the very light brown color of the dried kit can be painted, or in this case it adds up to the weathering effect. Herewith a picture of the glues I'm currently using for this build. Regarding edge coloring for the outside skins: Tombow markers dark grey N45 (instead of black, which is "too black") and Green N57/228 for the green/brown camouflage. For the weathering patch edges I use light grey (the type number has disappeared from the marker shaft because of its frequent use ). In the background of the picture you see Tamiya XF-71 Cockpit green, XF-19 Sky grey and XF-85 Rubber black - also used up so far. Cheers, Erik |
#42
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Interesting build thread Erik!
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The SD40 is 55 now! |
#43
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Do your Tombow markers tend to run?
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Fred Bultman |
#44
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Engine cowling
Thank you Kevin and Fred, glad you find this interesting.
@Fred: The Tombow markers do not run but if the paper has not been varnished you have to be careful and just lightly touch the paper edges with the marker tips. It is better to check first on a piece of scrap paper. I'm not sure if it is like that but it seems to me that Halinski uses that kind of paper quality (or is it just its thickness?) that prevents or minimizes running. Next is the engine cowling, which starts with an elaborate internal structure. I had given it a thought whether or not to install Alin's wonderful Merlin engine (in fact for a Spitfire Mk V but would that make much difference?) but eventually decided to not do it. Quite complicated and time consuming. Besides, for the sake of displaying this little marvel it might well be better to build and appreciate it separately. Before placing the cowling I added a few scraps of cardboard to reinforce the edges of the exhaust bays and part of the sides. I was a bit apprehensive to glue the skins as it must be a "one time right" action but after numerous dry-fits I was convinced that the fit is perfect, even the relatively difficult shaping around the circular front former at the spinner location. After drying of the glue I noticed that at the sides the skins appeared to be slightly sunken in and I drilled a few holes in the bottom formers to carefully push out and flatten the skin again with the tip of a small screw driver. The bottom section of the cowling will be placed later, after installation of the wings. I must say I'm thrilled with the superior accuracy of the model, it's really a joy to build this Spit! Next will be the remaining details at the cowling. Erik |
#45
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Looking really great - the visual lines are really coming out exactly like the real thing, which is very pleasing!
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The SD40 is 55 now! |
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#46
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that is lots of framing in the nose.
Isaac
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My gallery [http://www.papermodelers.com/gallery...v-r-6&cat=500] Recent buildsMeteor F1, Meteor F8, Mig-Ye8, NA Sabre, A-4E Skyhawk,Mig-15 red, Mig-17 repaint |
#47
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Just amazing, Erik. All those formers will really make the cowling look great. I agree with Kevin. The lines are super accurate. There is something just so realistic about these paper models as they get closer to finished. They basically build like the real thing!
Dan |
#48
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great work Erik....very smooth and very clean.
YOAV |
#49
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Your model is progressing very nicely.
Thank you for sharing! |
#50
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looking good Erik.
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David........... Paper modelling gives you a happy high. currently building. c GAZ 51 ALG 17, wagon 111a. unex DH411 excavator and spitfire Mk 9 |
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1:33, halinski, spitfire mk 1a |
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