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  #11  
Old 11-17-2021, 05:54 PM
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Butelczynski Butelczynski is offline
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Originally Posted by Rata View Post
I have much better luck by cutting the tabs off completely, glueing 2mm or so of the edge of it underneath, cutting 2mm spaced slits around it (only really necessary on rounded fuselages with V-cuts in the corners for square ones), and then bending the ends inward slightly will help sliding the next section over it. If you're going to use paint touching up to hide any white paper edges, doing that just before glueing sections together I find gives the neatest results.
That is exactly what I'm doing.This method allows a nice flush fit of sections and strip glued under joint adds a lot of strength to the model.

For beginning with S&P models I'd suggest something like jet airliners or jet planes with cylindrical fuselages. It's a good practice for various techniques,glues and way of assembly.

Keep in mind nobody is perfect and even Bruno gets it wrong sometimes. Beauty of digital models is you can always print them again and correct wrongs.
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Old 11-17-2021, 07:29 PM
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Rata Rata is offline
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Originally Posted by Butelczynski View Post
That is exactly what I'm doing.This method allows a nice flush fit of sections and strip glued under joint adds a lot of strength to the model.

For beginning with S&P models I'd suggest something like jet airliners or jet planes with cylindrical fuselages. It's a good practice for various techniques,glues and way of assembly.

Keep in mind nobody is perfect and even Bruno gets it wrong sometimes. Beauty of digital models is you can always print them again and correct wrongs.
100% correct.
Please bear in mind these techniques are pretty standard with most designers who provide joiner tabs as separate parts. Thaipaperwork models are a good example. I can't speak for Bruno of course, but he probably does those pink or purple tabs so the builder knows where they're needed. You build one S&P model and you've pretty much got the idea for further models.
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