#101
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Correct about sealing decals after printing. DecalPaper.com gives the following instructions:
* Step #1: Design your decals using any graphic software program. (Use 8 1/2 " x 11" sheet BEL INK JET Decal Paper or cut sheet into half if desired.) * Step #2: Set your printer as follows: o Resolution = Best o Paper = Photo Gloss o (Print your decal on the glossy side of BEL INK JET Decal Paper.) * Step #3: Spray your printed sheet evenly with Krylon Acrylic Crystal Clear High Gloss spray until the sheet has a shine (2-3 coats). Allow 30 to 60 minutes to dry and set. (This product is available at any craft or hardware store such as Loews, Home Depot, Ace Hardware, Walmart, etc. Any acrylic clear coat spray will work.) * Step #4: Cut out your image using a standard pair of sharp household scissors. * Step #5: Place decal into a cup of clean water for 45-60 seconds and remove when the thin decal film begins to slip along backing. (Discard backing material after the decal has been removed) * Step #6: Apply decal to clean surface; ceramic, glass, metal, plastic, soap, candles, mylar balloons, model trains, planes, cars, etc. |
#102
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Thanks guys,
I'll give it another shot,never used them before... I think the sealing will do the job, I bought mine in a artsurplies store as lose sheets, so no instructions, but Ron's are pretty clear :D |
#103
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Quote:
john |
#104
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A question for Ron,
Back in my lost "plastic" days, I recall that decals has a sticky glueish feel under the film that appeared milky until dry. I also remember a few times having to re-wet the decal, and in doing so, lost the decals ability to "stick" down. In your detailed method above (and thank you for sharing this), do you have any problems with the decals sticking?? Microscale makes a decal glue for this purpose. Just wondering - because your method sounds like the way to go, AND everything that is needed is readily available. Ken |
#105
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I have not used the "do-it-yourself" decals so cannot address the glue issue with them. In plastic modeling I use either Micro-sol or Solvaset to "snuggle' the decals down. Generally the only decals I have had problems with are from old (5+ years) kits and/or decals that have been stored under adverse conditions (sunlight, high humidity, etc.) but they will usually yield to one of the above decal solvents. No matter what sort of decal you are using a glossy surface is always the best for applying decals. Once the decal has dried an overspray of gloss/semi-gloss/matte spray as appropriate will give a uniform luster to the surface.
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#106
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A light coat of Future acrylic floor polish gives a remarkable surface to apply the decals to,and another light coat seals them permanently. Thin it with alcohol to run it thru your airbrush.
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#107
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Airbrush?
Who's got an airbrush, and why? This is PAPER we're talking about. Just print the dang things on label stickers, and you're DONE. I thought we were trying to simplify things, not make them where only people with AIRBRUSHES can do this... Do the simplest thing first. |
#108
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We're talking about the best way to apply decals. If you want to stay "true" to papermodels,photoshop the insignia in.
Last edited by widget; 09-17-2009 at 08:34 PM. Reason: inapropriate response. |
#109
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Precisely...
Since we've pretty much established that you can't print white on metallic paper, then you go to the next most simple step. Never overcomplicate something when you don't have to, because the more complex something is, the more likely it can get messed up. If you start making things overly complex, you'll lose people who don't have the tools, the ability, or the desire to do it. |
#110
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Quote:
There are all kinds of modelers here. Look around. You'll see great, little quick builds and amazing fantastic builds done by masters who use every trick in the book! Even airbrushes. Thankfully it's all up to the individual modeler. And it is actually "modeling" we are all talking about granted the medium is paper. I see your point though. Airbrushing is a bit extreme for Me too.....just yet anyway. |
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