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  #61  
Old 09-08-2009, 12:39 AM
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alpinemike alpinemike is offline
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A while back, over at the "other forum" I read about markings on metallic surfaces. The author and builder was a gentleman who goes by "Jesus". His models were incredible! He mainly models late 50s and early 60s airliners. Mostly silver or aluminum finishes. At any rate he also recommended printing the color markings onto sticky back or sticker paper. He even painted some of his larger, brighter and glossy graphics onto this type of paper. The cut them out and applies them.

If You have seen His models You know already, if not, his work is still posted over there in a thread about civil aviation. These techniques would lend amazing results to this model!!!!!
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  #62  
Old 09-08-2009, 12:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lancer525 View Post
Unless I miss my guess, there is also a "home" method for producing opaque decals, similar to those that come with, *ahem* those P kind of models.
Yes there is. Its water transfer decals and You can buy all that is needed to do this. Ive looked into this just a bit. The only issue I see (MINOR) is some markings by nature would need to be cut in a super finite and delicate way. But, this could work as well. After all many of the modelers here are like brain surgeons with a hobby knife. :p

Last edited by rickstef; 09-08-2009 at 06:44 AM.
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  #63  
Old 09-08-2009, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by alpinemike View Post
Yes there is. Its water transfer decals and You can buy all that is needed to do this. Ive looked into this just a bit. The only issue I see (MINOR) is some markings by nature would need to be cut in a super finite and delicate way. But, this could work as well. After all many of the modelers here are like brain surgeons with a hobby knife. :p

Before you place waterslide decals on RR metallic paper, you must put a protective finish over the paper. The paper is coated with a water soluble coating that accepts printer ink.

Really, there is no need for this if you set the preferences on your printer correctly. On the other hand, I suppose not all printers are created equal. The HP I use does a magnificent job on the RR paper.
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  #64  
Old 09-08-2009, 09:00 AM
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I wasn't aware of this, Charles... I haven't used Red River paper, but the one I had planned to get (Metallic Paper) would have had printed markings, lettering, nose art, etc on thin white sticker paper negating the use of waterborne decals.
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  #65  
Old 09-08-2009, 09:29 AM
kenlwest kenlwest is offline
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I think a little experimentation is required for this one. I will be providing Billy a "white" version as well as "gray". There are probably many variables here... type/brand of printer, type of ink, translucency of the ink, paper type, and even the type of coating that cdavenport is refering to.

Through experimentation, maybe Billy can provide "recommendations" for success. I'll do a little "trial and error" myself and we'll be posting the results.

I am hoping to get the wing assembly to Billy by this weekend. He is itching; I can feel it!

Start saving your breakfast food boxes. All of my models are designed for that thickness; and the Hustler is a BIG model. (Not as big as the Valkyrie though).

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  #66  
Old 09-08-2009, 12:07 PM
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John Bowden John Bowden is offline
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Ooohhh! Wouldn't this go good with Gil's Aluminum card stock............
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  #67  
Old 09-08-2009, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by John Bowden View Post
Ooohhh! Wouldn't this go good with Gil's Aluminum card stock............
Yeah, I have been following that thread, but I think for this it might be the best to use the Red River paper, so that it will be buildable for everyone...
I have been experimenting with metallic papers a lot, and I think this model will be appealing for lot of modelers that never used metallic paper before...so it should not be harder then getting RR paper
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  #68  
Old 09-08-2009, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by billy.leliveld View Post
Yeah, I have been following that thread, but I think for this it might be the best to use the Red River paper, so that it will be buildable for everyone...
OOPS a version handled like the P47 mentioned earlier or light gray would be nice.
I use UltraChrome inks - not compatible with any metallic or metallic like paper.

When illustrated with a silver-ish look and then sprayed with several coats of high gloss finish, it looks good.
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  #69  
Old 09-08-2009, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by jagolden01 View Post
OOPS a version handled like the P47 mentioned earlier or light gray would be nice.
I use UltraChrome inks - not compatible with any metallic or metallic like paper.

When illustrated with a silver-ish look and then sprayed with several coats of high gloss finish, it looks good.
That's what I like when you print a "toned " model on metallic paper, it looks like the different panels have different shades, just like the original
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  #70  
Old 09-08-2009, 05:57 PM
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Of course, if you look at my Mig-21 thread (not a shameless plug, really) I covered another set of techniques for getting the varied panel shading appearance on RR silver paper. This would be an excellent opportunity to add a final proof to the method.
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