#11
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Thanks for the tips lehcyfer,
Another interesting thing happened while doing this model. While printing the fuselage my printer cartridge started to run out of ink. Needless to say the fuselage was not good enough to use to finish the model. Not wanting to waste card stock I turned the card over and printed the fuselage on the reverse side. Low and behold it printed the fuselage almost exactly where the one on the other side was If you look closely at the third picture you can see the printing on the inside of the cockpit.:D I didn't even realize it until I was assembling the fuselage How Kool Still working on the nose cowling:(
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#12
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Bob-
Great job! I do alot of the FG models with interiors - Can't help myself :o) Do you have a source or photos you copy for inst. panel, seats controls, floor? Mine are scratch-built out of plain carkstock. I like what you do with the FG stuff. '06 |
#13
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Hey 30-60,
I can't help myself either:D There are several FG models that have insturment panels as well as others I have collected from other sites. I've told some of the designers it would be great if they would start adding instrument panels to the new models. Have to wait and see The one in the Bird Dog I had to add to because it wasn't quite wide enough. The floors control sticks and or yokes and seats I, like you, scratch build I started out building the regular models, then started building them over with clear canopies, and now building them over doing detailed cockpits. Will it ever end Would love to see some of your builds
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http://satellitedoctor.mysite.com/ http://flybirdman.4t.com/ Spoke wheel tutorial http://flybirdman.4t.com/box_widget.html |
#14
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Interesting to see im not the only one to have problems with wind screens on pipers ...cessnas etc...hardest things ive tried suggestions will be gladly read hawksrrikes
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#15
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Bill,
For FG Piper/Cessna/etc. windscreens I pre-curve and do a lot of dry fitting. Then trim for best appearance (regardless of positioning lines on the model). Most require some crimping and torturing to lay the top edge flat. No real tricks, just takes a fair amount of time. Bob is doing very nice work here. Some results with FG models are posted on the "Yogi's builds" thread - around pages 1 and 4. Yogi |
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#16
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Well this is as good as it's gonna get without a complete rebuild
__________________
http://satellitedoctor.mysite.com/ http://flybirdman.4t.com/ Spoke wheel tutorial http://flybirdman.4t.com/box_widget.html |
#17
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Oooooo. Nice one Bob! :D
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#18
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I can't imagine it being any better than that, Bob!
Great model, and a funny story about the two-sided printing. Don |
#19
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Bob - what do you use to attach canopies & what kinda clear palstic do you use? I've been using Elmer's or Alene's and blister-pak off of items I've bought at the store.
Gregor |
#20
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Thanks guys
Don, how'd the model show go? 30-06, I usually use clear packing tape for most all windows, especially the side windows and bubble canopies. If you go to one of My web sites, and click on canopy tutorial, I try and explain that method. I also use bubble wrap and I get sheets of clear plastic from craft shops. Besides tape, I also use testors plastic glue to attach windows and bubble canopies. For this model I actually taped two pieces of clear packing tape together, for the front and rear windows, and attached with plastic glue.:D
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