#21
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On to the bottom wing, and what do we find? Yep, another major goof in the kit. Look at the picture and see if you can detect the problem. Ah yes, the center skin is printed with the mounting point outlines for the engine and hip cradle BACKWARDS! Ugh..
So it looks like I'll have to use a scanned replacement and modify it in Photoshop. Too bad it has these diagonal seams. If not for those I could just flip it! As it is, the bits will have to be moved around manually. And then print about 1000 trials to get the color somewhere close. Another option could have been to physically cut the parts out and swap them with cuts from the other side - but that diagonal seam goes right through there! I wished I'd noticed this before starting - I would have done all the skins from scans. |
#22
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Looks great! I think the only way I'd be willing to give that wing a try would be to go back to my 'stick and tissue' days and come up with a paper that I could wet and would dry taught, although if you say the framing provides no support, even that would be difficult.
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-Dan |
#23
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I thought about using 32 lb inkjet paper for easier covering until I saw how flimsy the frame was! There's a guy doing this kit over on Kartonbau who's attempting to use some sort of Japanese paper - I assume he means tissue. Don't know how he'll manage. He hasn't posted in a while, so maybe it didn't work out.
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#24
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Looks great, Rick! Seems you can't catch a break on your recent models! I give you credit though, this one would probably ended up with the rest of the "half builts" for me!
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Chris Currently have way too many hobbies |
#25
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http://www.orlik-models.pl/modele/17flyer/flyer.htm - it appears that they just built everything in the correct position and left the blocks open in their version.
Instead of re-drawing all the bits, what about scanning a different wing section (one of the outside bits) and just matching colors to give you a section that would match the cross seams and just print the problem part without any of the locating markings?
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-Dan |
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#26
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It's obvious they knew when they built the sample it was messed up - seems like they would have posted an errata, as they have for some of their other issues.
As for what I'll do, I think I'm going to use the original part and move at least the big trapezoid shape physically, and patch the resulting hole like you are saying, by printing a section from a scan that'll look as closely like the section as I can. |
#27
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Bottom Wing
Done with the bottom wing. Good news is it went together nicer than the top and came out a bit neater and straighter in the end. Bad news is the awful patch job I had to do to get rid of the gray marks for mounting the motor and hip cradle. As I mentioned in the previous posting, they are printed backwards! I must have tried dozens of scan/print variations and this was the best of the lot. Quite ugly. Luckily the thing will be full of wires and propeller shafts and may be obscured a little. :(
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#28
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Struts - Joining the Wings
Next step is going to prove to be the most tedious stage of this model, I think. The 2 wings are attached with 18 "struts" between them. Below is a picture of a few of the "wood" wrapping pieces and the laser cut inner part (0.5mm thick). The wood grain is printed on thin bond type paper and wraps around the core.
The other picture is the figure that shows how each end of the struts is made. A shaped plate glues to the wing and holds a piece of wire attached to the end of the strut with thread, and also 2 wire "hooks", that will serve as belaying points for the rigging lines. Alas, there are 36 of these bad boys. It's gonna take a little while... |
#29
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A most interesting scheme for attaching the struts and rigging! Good luck! I don't think your "patch" job looks so bad. By the time it's all put together you won't even see it.
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#30
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I must say that it looks great in the photos. You sure do take on some major challenges, Rick. It's great that you are documenting all the problems and your solutions. This thread is bound to become a classic.
Don B. |
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