#1
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Orlik Savoia-Marchetti S.M.79 1:33
This may not be a full build thread when it's all over but I'll keep at it (intermittently) as long as I can. This is Orlik's big (!) model of the workhorse Italian bomber/torpedo bomber/transport from WW2. I believe there is a "first impressions" review elsewhere (the other site?) so I will not repeat most of the info here. Unusual for Orlik, this is printed on A3 sheets (296 x 420 mm) no doubt to accomodate the wing panels. The quality of printing and color is excellent with the paper having a semi-gloss finish. I opted for the laser-cut frame set which is available from many sources. To cut to the chase, the few pictures I have so far are posted below.
While the use of laser-cut frames certainly eases the thick card cutting burden it introduces a minor problem when the paper sheet has colored printing on it. When laminating your own parts the normal procedure is to glue the part or page of parts to the backing .5mm, 1.0mm, etc. card sheet and then cutting out the laminated part(s). If the paper sheet had required printing on it (an instrument panet, for example) the laminated part is as good as your ability to cut to a line. If that same instrument panel uses a laser-cut backing the paper part must be cut from the sheet and then glued to the laser-cut backing while trying to align the outer edges. This pretty much precludes the use of a spray adhesive (my preferred method) requiring instead an adhesive such as Uhu or a PVC and then a few hours of pressing to prevent curling. Following that there will probably be some minor trimmimg required to get the paper part and the laser-cut backing to perfectly align. To simplify things a little I now use the laser-cut part as is, unless there are colored areas involved, in which case I use only the colored portion of the paper part. This is usually most encountered on aircraft models where the wheel wells, flap interiors and the like are open to display. The instructions are in Polish (English translation (of sorts) is available from the Orlik website) and generally the diagrams are detailed and useful. Some cockpit parts required some guesswork as to positioning and a couple parts had a different number on the parts sheet than on the diagrams. As can be seen in the photos I have not yet colored most edges - my acrylics are still missing after a recent redo of my computer/workshop area. The level of detail is actually more than I care for (gorilla fists do not like parts with dimensions smaller than one inch) and a strange phenomenon is that the throttle and engine controls are four in number, not three as one would expect with a 3-engined aircraft. I have had to set this build aside a couple times so far due to my frustration level getting in the red zone. Most of the frustration is self-generated and relates to small parts/big fingers but there are a few fairly complex, curvy bits that have prevented me from proceeding - maybe next week... |
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#2
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Looks good to me Ron, gorilla fingers or not. I saw your sig earlier and started thinking that I would like to see the build... voila!
Carl |
#3
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For colouring your edges, do you buy the exact colours, mix them, or what? I've never actually bothered to do it, minus some black marker here and there. How much does it cost you in general? I always thought it would be too expensive.
As for gorilla fists, I know exactly how you feel. Just today I gave up 2 or 3 times before finally gluing together a few things. |
#4
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Excellent!
It will be nice to see this monster being build.
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Constructive criticism of my builds is welcome - if I messed up and allowed others to see it, I certainly deserve it Michael Krol |
#5
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Gharbad - I use acrylic paints from one of my other hobbies - wargame miniatures painting. I usually just pick the closest color and grab my 2/0 brush. I have also used felt-tip markers and watercolor pencils...whatever works.
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#6
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Looks good so far
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#7
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Quote:
I have some paints from plastic models, but they generally expire and never seem to be what I need. How much luck have you had with markers? |
#8
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My best luck has been with "Prismacolor" brand markers. they are available at craft stores in the US, have a fine tip and a wide tip and are a bit pricey.
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#9
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one of the best places i go to for my supplies, especially markers and colored pencils is Dick Blick at www.dickblick.com
Rick
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"Rock is Dead, Long Live Paper and Scissors" International Paper Model Convention Blog http://paperdakar.blogspot.com/ "The weak point of the modern car is the squidgy organic bit behind the wheel." Jeremy Clarkson, Top Gear's Race to Oslo |
#10
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I'll check them out, thanks!
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