GeeBee R1 by Rafal Ciesielski - Part 1

[airdave]

Originally Posted by GreMir

Dave,
It's exactly the same kit.

yes, thats what I thought.
but since I want to try the upscale, I will have to work with the downloaded one.

[wag]

This is one I've had downloaded for awhile now and haven't been brave enough to try. I'll be following closely.
Wayne

[SJPONeill]

Jim

One of the things I found when doing joins that really helped was to remove the joining tabs i.e. the teeth of the curved cowl parts, and replace them with a separate part on the backside of the part. This will give you a butt join (edge to edge) instead of the overlap from the way the parts are originally...

I struggle with compound curve cowlings, more so when my first build (the SPI BV P.170) was a tri-motor and I had to get three all the same...I suppose I should get it out of the time-out box and do some more work on it...
Simon

[Ron40]

For your compound curves you need to use a burnishing tool.
After you get to the point you are at now take the burnishing
tool and on the inside of the cowling at the joins roll it around
the cowling against soft but sturdy piece of rubber. Some
modelers use a mouse pad in lieu of rubber. When you roll it
around at the seam areas as well as the other parts of the
cowling you will get a nice rounded shape. You can buy a
burnishing tool at Micro Mark or some people use a small baby
spoon. I hope this helps out. Ron

[bagpiper]

Originally Posted by B-Manic

It seems to be coming along very nicely Jim - nice recovery.

Thank you kind Sir. After all of my hoo haa about posting I thought why not. As a relative beginner to paper modeling I hope that this will help others who want to try this model out. Nice to be able to put back as well as take out of this wonderful community I found at paperModelers.com

Cheers
Jim

[bagpiper]

Originally Posted by airdave

ooooh goody!!!

I built this kit about a year ago.
But never finished it...
my skill level wasn't there yet, and the engine parts and wheel skirts were just too much for me!

I also had a lot of trouble shaping the rear part of the fuselage and cockpit area.

I have been planning to give this kit another try
but I will be upscaling it (I like big planes!)
I also have the Modelik kit which I want to try.
(although it looks like the same kit to me?)

if you run into any troubles, I might be able to help with a few photos of my half completed kit.
but I think someone else here also did this build, and did it quite well if I remember correctly.
There might be a build thread if you look.

Oh heck!!! lol. No worries man but I appreciate the info on the problems you had. I know this is a step up for me but I know that you guys will help me through any problems. Where's your boat when I need it Dave. :D

Take care my friend and catch up with you later.

Cheers
Jim

[bagpiper]

Originally Posted by wag

This is one I've had downloaded for awhile now and haven't been brave enough to try. I'll be following closely.
Wayne

Thanks Wag. Pressures on now! I feel like I have made it into the inner sanctum of the shrine of the paper modelers great temple. :D And all I had to do was post a model build.

Thanks mate and appreciate any input at any time.

Kindest regards
Jim

[bagpiper]

Originally Posted by SJPONeill

Jim

One of the things I found when doing joins that really helped was to remove the joining tabs i.e. the teeth of the curved cowl parts, and replace them with a separate part on the backside of the part. This will give you a butt join (edge to edge) instead of the overlap from the way the parts are originally...

I struggle with compound curve cowlings, more so when my first build (the SPI BV P.170) was a tri-motor and I had to get three all the same...I suppose I should get it out of the time-out box and do some more work on it...
Simon

Appreciate the information mate. I think this may be a little way ahead form me just at this time but will sure keep this in my mind. So far I see paper when I build. I know I need to see the whole model and figure out where I can cut tabs and so on. Have a model build plan so to speak. At the moment it is monkey see, monkey do sort of thing. Thanks and if I chop any tabs on this build I will sure mention it. lol

Cheers
Jim

[GreMir]

Originally Posted by SJPONeill

Jim

One of the things I found when doing joins that really helped was to remove the joining tabs i.e. the teeth of the curved cowl parts, and replace them with a separate part on the backside of the part. This will give you a butt join (edge to edge) instead of the overlap from the way the parts are originally...Simon

Simon,
That's how the GeeBee is designed - see photos at the very beginning of the thread.

Jim,
I second Ron's advice - burnishing tool (antyhing smooth and round will do) is the way to go.

[bagpiper]

Originally Posted by GreMir

Simon,
That's how the GeeBee is designed - see photos at the very beginning of the thread.

Jim,
I second Ron's advice - burnishing tool (antyhing smooth and round will do) is the way to go.

Thanks Michael and Ron. Missed his post as I was busy typing away replying to another post. I will certainly give Ron's tip a go and will document on how it went.

Cheers
Jim