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  #11  
Old 05-21-2013, 06:11 PM
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The chinese may have "invented" nearly everything we take for granted, but they have not perfected steel. That is why they still buy drill pipe from us, and they pay dearly for it...
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  #12  
Old 05-21-2013, 06:24 PM
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Perhaps the thickness or weight of the cardstock being cut should also be considered.

The weights that I normally use are 32 Lb and 67 Lb.
Thus, a light duty knife may be good enough for me.

Another modeler who uses 110 Lb and heavier cardstock, may need a stronger knife.
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  #13  
Old 05-21-2013, 06:35 PM
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My box of Xacto blades is almost finished, so I look forward to trying the box of Horizon blades. Don't know how they'll really compare with the other good blades mentioned in this thread, but at least each blade says, "USA." Sorry if this sounds chauvinistic, but different nations do seem to have different "strong points."
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  #14  
Old 05-21-2013, 08:58 PM
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Thanks for starting up this thread, John, its turning out to be very informative.

For what it's worth, here's my two cents...

Lately, like others here, I've been sold on the X-acto Z blades. I have found that they really are much stronger (no broken tips) and hold their edge much longer than the regular x-acto blades. I've put a single Z blade thruough the ringer while building my Dragon Wagon. So far, so good. It's holding up very well to lots of tough cutting; this includes 38 wheel formers (mounted to 0.5mm card board), 38 tire sidewalls, 38 wheel rims, 19 tread sections, a whole front suspension and many other parts! Like the Energizer Bunny, it keeps going strong. When it gets a little dull I touch up the edge using a whet stone and some polishing compound. This brings it right back to life with an edge just as sharp as a new blade.

Here how I do it...

First, I put a little spit onto the whetstone to act as a cutting lube for the blade. The stone that I use is a very, very, fine one. Sorry I have no idea what brand it is but I found it in the fishing department at a Gander Mountain Sporting Goods store many years ago. One side of the triangular shaped stone has groves molded into it that can be used to sharpen fishing hooks. Plus it has a nice chain affixed to one end so you can attach it to your fishing vest, or paper modeling vest, if you have one! (As you know, any respectable paper model builder who's worth their weight in card stock, must have a paper modeling vest)

Then I draw the knife across the stone like I'm trying to whittle or shave away at it, Don't drag the blade backwards! (You'll go backwards later when polishing) I give each side of the blade about 4-5 good passes across the stone.

Then I use green polishing compound and a piece on scrap cardboard to hone a super sharp edge onto the blade.

I take the stick of polishing compound and rub or "scribble" some like a crayon onto a piece of scrap brown cardboard like you'd get from an old cereal box.

Then I drag each side of the blade over this several times to remove any microscopic burrs created by the whetstone until the edge has a mirror like finish and razor sharp edge. This technique is similar to that of the old time barber, using a leather strop on his old straight razor to guarantee a close shave. From time to time I will also do this polishing between trips to the whetstone I have found that this quick polish adds instant life into the blade.

This is probably not the only way to sharpen a blade but I have found it to be very quick and effective. Soon you'll be cutting 1.0mm card stock like it's butter!
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  #15  
Old 05-21-2013, 08:59 PM
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Thank God I have a lifetime supply of Blades made in the USA many years ago. The new Exacto made in China is over priced crap. The only thing close to the old Exacto is something I found at Michaels. It is called Recollections. The handle is comfortable and it comes with a package of decent quality blades or at least mine did. There is no way that I would buy the new Xacto or R/M sh*t.
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  #16  
Old 05-21-2013, 09:41 PM
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...and, can I add...since using cheaper cutting mats,
I have gone through hundreds more blades (breaking tips).

I will be breaking down soon and replacing my mat again.
Hopefully with something better.
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  #17  
Old 05-21-2013, 11:19 PM
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Best deal I found on Z-series is at Widget Supply -- 100 blades for about 32 bucks, including shipping
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  #18  
Old 05-22-2013, 09:23 AM
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Don Boose Don Boose is offline
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Kevin - Many thanks for the excellent tutorial on sharpening and for your comments on the Xacto Z blades, which confirm Darwin's report. I look forward to seeing your paper modeling vest in October at Sterling, along with the Dragon Wagon.

David - Thanks for the info on the Widget offer. Higher than the $9.00 deal that Darwin scored, but good nonetheless.

Don
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  #19  
Old 05-22-2013, 11:23 PM
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Uyraell Uyraell is offline
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I've a box or two of Swan-Morton Scalpels, equating to No.# 11 Blades that I've kept unopened for decades.

To explain the above: I was an Embalmer, and thus used Medical Equipment in My (then) Profession. This necessarily included various Scalpel Blades, and their relevant Handles.

That said: there is a vast difference between those two blades, despite BOTH being labelled as "No.# 11". Yes: both the X-Acto and the Swan-Morton have the SAME profile. Yes, both have the same edge (unless you're a nuclear physicist or a metallurgist).

I can tell you this: having sliced human flesh (from skin to bone) and having sliced paper and cardboard in various thicknesses from .5mm to 3mm (within that same context); There Is in fact in so far as a person may discern, very little difference.
Bone is harder to cut when newly dead. Skin (or muscle) is much easier.
But various grades of cardboard or paper do not greatly differ.

However: The Medical Blade has in its' favour Durability where the Hobby Blade does not.
Granted: one then enters into discussions relating to the best handle or mounting ( for practical usage) of such a blade. But that entire discussion relies principally upon what the individual has Learned and wherefrom in terms of technique.
Hence, I do not intend to address that topic.

From My own Experience: I would tend to prefer the Medical Blade over/to the Hobby Blade simply because I believe in the durability of the former over the latter.

Resharpening is less an issue than may be thought at first glance: as others have so ably shown within this thread.

Kind and Respectful Regards My Friends, Uyraell.
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  #20  
Old 05-23-2013, 12:04 AM
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I've given up on #11 blades.
They're just too pricey where I live.

Instead, I've resorted to using 30-degree snap-off blades sold by NT-Cutter.
I'd only need to snap off a segment and mount on my blade holder.
Here's a link to the product page:
BD-2000

Each segment is almost as durable as an XActo #11 blade. They're about the same price as a cartridge of your garden variety 45-degree snap off blade (i.e. cheap)
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