Flaking ink on color prints

[Diderick A. den Bakker]

There has been a lot of discussion about the problem of flaking ink on color prints. Especially laser prints are said to do this; some say that the very expensive Epsom inks are less prone to this.
I think I have found the reason why, and the solution. I recently came across some old paper, ca. 160 grams (double normal printing paper). It wasn't quite as smooth as modern paper - and the result is excellent! No flaking or smudging at all.
Modern papers are generally very smooth, because they are coated. The coating makes the surface slightly harder, so that it absorbs less ink; also it looks glossier. Both good reasons for office use.
Non coated paper is definitely better for our purpose. The only problem: shops do not normally stock this. You will have to go to a professional printer (not just a copy shop, although they just might be able to help), explain the problem, and ask them to order it for you. Worth the trouble. Planning to check this with my own printer next week - will keep you informed.
Have a look at my Photo Collection: Flickr: New Photo Collection, via www.zeistbouwplaten.nl's Photostream
and send me pictures of your own favourite builds?

[Pgtaylorart]

First of all Diderick, I looked at your Flickr photos and I have to say fantastic models! I really love the variety. You're not afraid to tackle any subject.

And now to ink and paper, first the ink: I did a lot of testing when I was running Paper Creek Model Works a few years ago. I found the Epson Durabrite inks to work the best. They are completely water resistant, I soaked the prints in water. They claim to be fade resistant for up to 70 years, I haven't finished testing this for obvious reasons The Epson photo inkjet printers produce the cleanest, sharpest and most color accurate prints. I would never use a laser printer. They use a heat process that creates a shiny and slightly blurry surface. Laser prints are much more prone to chipping and fading, and aren't water resistant in my experience.

As for paper: I always use Classic Crest paper in Solar White (the brightest, cleanest white). It's acid free. The surface is uncoated and smooth, with a slight "tooth". A smoother version exists, but I don't care for it. It comes in 24, 65, 80, and 110 pound and can be found at Kelly Paper, which is a chain here in So Calif. but it can be ordered directly from the manufacturer which can be found online. The only down side is that it's pricey. A ream of 250 sheets of the 24lb is about $30. The heaver stock can be as high as $45. But when you're spending so much time and effort on your model, you want it to last, and a ream will last a long time if you're only making personal models.

I sold thousands of printed sheets with this ink/paper combination and never received a single complaint about these issues.

Good luck with all this, and let me know if you discover anything new.

Thanks,
George

[Jim Nunn]

I have a HP color laser in my office that I have used for printing paper models with no issues of ink flaking. I do set the printer to heavy card stock which is the reason that I do not have this problem. My IT person tells me that the printer is heating the cylinder to a higher temperature. What I do have a problem with is that the laser has limited color range when compared to an inkjet printer.

Jim Nunn

[Diderick A. den Bakker]

pgtaylorart:
First of all Diderick, I looked at your Flickr photos and I have to say fantastic models! I really love the variety. You're not afraid to tackle any subject.

I should perhaps point out again that nearly all the models in the Collection are built and photographed by other people!! But if by 'tackling any subject' you mean finding some extra information on historical subjects / models: it is often surprisingly easy to find background information and pictures on Wikipedia and Google Images. Part of the fun I derive from the Collection on Flickr!

Your info on papers and inks sounds very useful for American visitors to the forum. Perhaps a European reader will be able to add to that?