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  #1  
Old 02-02-2010, 01:03 PM
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cgutzmer cgutzmer is offline
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Items to include in book text...

I want to devise a template of things to ask builders to put in the book along with their pics of the build. Optional and required. If you were picking up this book imagine this book about 15x15 inches

Left hand page very large picture using most of the page caption states what the model is representing


Right hand field will have text and several more pics

Required fields
Model subject (also used as caption)
historical significance or subjects background
Scale
actual model dimensions
model publisher and/or designer if known


optional fields
approx number of parts
builder profile
preprinted or electronic download
list of kit changes made by builder
approx number of hours to complete build
Pic of real subject
link to build thread if available

What else might be good to have included in the text?
Thanks!
Chris
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  #2  
Old 02-02-2010, 03:57 PM
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doctormax doctormax is offline
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if the model be to much for a person starting out on card modeling the different mehods used tools that or needed for the build of the model. they be the kind of thing I like reading bout on build threads really. If there is a tool one has around the house that can do the job that kind of thing be cool. So far I have seen some good things people use on doing some models between old ball point pens to make rivets look dented in to the card. these or the things that make this hobby so different really ten builders could do one model and none would look the same at all.
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Old 02-02-2010, 04:48 PM
elliott elliott is offline
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If there is a build thread, a link to it would be nice.
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Old 02-02-2010, 05:17 PM
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doctormax doctormax is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elliott View Post
If there is a build thread, a link to it would be nice.
do you mean the using the used up ball point pen to mark card to look like rivets there is a thread on it? its on papermodels.com all I remember about it do is the user was from Poland and he joined here the other week to help with the game design. All I remember is the name begins with L on both forums. Sure he will post a link to it if he sees us chatting about his cool method elliott it was super great style of building the man has. I tried it with the me109 the other week. and well I must have went to hard or discovered some extra reserve of ink in the pen.

found his profile on here elliot.. I may find it to the other one but that would take ages so may do that tommorow for the papermodels.com and who knows may find the thread If i do I will post it to you http://ecardmodels.com/forum/member.php?u=887
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Old 02-02-2010, 08:47 PM
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willygoat willygoat is offline
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Billy did a great tutorial on using a roller punch to make rivets in his FG Boeing 229 model. It's on papermodelers here Boeing 299 he shows the rivet thing in the second post of the thread.
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Old 02-03-2010, 09:14 AM
elliott elliott is offline
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Thanks guys. Reading my post again I can see where it was vague. I actually meant that it would be nice if, in the book, a link to a model's build thread could be included. However, the info y'all provided is much appreciated as I had forgotten all about it. Is this a great place or what?
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Old 02-03-2010, 05:30 PM
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cgutzmer cgutzmer is offline
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Good point! So obvious I missed it - will add to original post

Link to build thread...

In regards to this: if the model be to much for a person starting out on card modeling

I expect EVERY model showcased in this book to be much too difficult for the absolute beginner. At least to achieve the results that will be shown. I figure most normal builders with several under their belt will be able to build most of the models in the book. This is to inspire people to see what is possible and to help people that do not know our hobby at all to see what is possible with our medium.

I do want the builder to list changes he made though like added rivet marks, added rigging, added x detail or scratch built x part etc etc

How to card model is another topic I may do in a later book BUT I have tried to start that before and gotten nowhere.... its almost too much to handle, at least for me, right now.
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  #8  
Old 02-04-2010, 06:36 AM
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doctormax doctormax is offline
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that be ok in an ebook a link chris and if the person has the internet. lots of people however maybe into the hobby and not be a member of the forum that the links go to? That would mean they would need to sign up to see the full threads with pics.
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  #9  
Old 02-04-2010, 06:42 AM
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cgutzmer cgutzmer is offline
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correct, they would probably need to sign up for the forums but that is their choice - it helps to build the community!
Chris
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  #10  
Old 06-25-2010, 08:24 AM
bigbenn bigbenn is offline
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Hi,
I've done rivets on my scale model card ships and early WW1 armour.
For indented rivets. Go to a dress makers shop and ask for the wheel thing mounted on a wooden handle that dressmakers use to mark out the tissue paper patterns from dressmaker patterns. The tool is cheap and the spikes on the wheel of the tool make excellent indented rivets, when applied carefully. I imagine the rivet spacings would be much the same, but try them and see.
Raised rivets are dead easy. I use PVA glue, but if you are relying on the pre coloured parts of a kit and you want to apply rivets after the model is built, mix the appropriate colour in water based paint, into a small amount of PVA glue and load into a syringe with the needle. Chemists sell them here. Just squeeze the plunger down gently, to release a droplet of precoloured wet glue onto your model, at the rivet points and when the PVA glue dries, you will have a rivet there.
Once you get the hang of it, you can regulate the size of the droplets very easily and you can put down a huge number of droplets in a short amount of time.
If you stuff up with the droplet, use a damp piece of cloth to remove the glue and try again.
It might pay first, to make sure you can remove a droplet, from a scrap piece of card, without leaving any colour discoloration behind.
Normally rivets done with PVA glue dry clear. Since I build large models and for radio control (boats) and I paint all parts with water based paint, as I build the model, rivets are not a problem for me - nor is building in 3D with doors and portholes and windows etc. I use PVA glue, a bubble to "drag over" wheelhouse windows and portholes, then when the PVA glue dries, voila a clear window. Before a boat goes in the water, I use varnish to waterproof over the finished model and to convert it from raw to finished and much stronger and watertight. I can explain the procedure, should anyone be interested.
Richard
BigBenn).
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