Cami's Chevy 57 Model 1201A 1:43

[papermate]

I mentioned somewhere that I would get some 4R prints on Camiis Chevy but finally settled by printing them on photographic paper muself. Trust me, it's not an amateur thing to build it. The photos in the following two posts say it all (yeah, the 20 pic max. rule applied). I was not following closely the standard assembly instuctions. Well everybody may have his/her own way.

Papermate

[papermate]

Here's part 2. Yeah, one thing about photographic paper or genuine photo prints. Be sure to peel off the flimsy vinyl backing which I think is a protective layer for the photo before glueing. Otherwise, it won't stay.

Papermate

[KCStephens]

WOW!!! That turned out Great! Look forward to seeing more builds like this.

[cMags]

Looks great! Nice work. Now I see how Cami intended the tabs to work on the fender/trunk fender/hood connections. Cool idea tying the front end together *before* adding the lights - it really helps to shape the light pods that way. Thanks for sharing. My sport coupe will be finished soon - just having trouble finding a wooden skewer the right thickness - I may have to use a round toothpick and build it up with paper.

[jagolden01]

Fine build Papermate! Looks difficult - was it?
Cami sure has done a nice job on the surface rendering on these cars.

[Cami]

Cool to see your build. Judging from the pictures you did pretty much like I do myself when I build them, but as you say everyone has his/her little tricks.

The use of some photo paper may indeed be tricky, I guess the more gloss you have, the more trouble you get. I have been through this, but the Kodak gloss paper I use now works great. It is not extra gloss though, just enough.

I plan to put detailed pics like you did on my website, but for now, I am gald you did. Thanks a lot for sharing, that will help other people who plan to attempt it. I hope it was not difficult enough to prevent you from building more of them, your first build looks pretty good.

Cami

[Don Boose]

This is really helpful. Cami's instructions are quite clear, but your detailed image sequence clarifies the procedure even more. I can see a few very minor flaws (although it is far better than I could at the best of times), but I'll bet after you have built one or two more, your fingers will learn just how to cope with the complex curves and tricky joins.

Thanks very much for making that detailed photo series and for your willingness to let us see your work as you taught yourself how to build the model.

Cami's comments validate your approach and I look forward to seeing the additional instruction that she promises.

Don

[rmks2000]

Thanks for the pictures. I have had bad luck getting photo paper to glue properly, and I've tried many different glues and also tried scuffing the gloss. I've binned a couple of models because of it. I'll have to try again on Kodak paper as per Cami's recommendation. Any glue recommendation would be appreciated.

cMags - Your method to build up the axle should work well. Another option is to try bamboo skewers (used for kabobs). The pack that I got from the supermarket has varying thicknesses (poor quality control?). However, if they are all too thick, place one in an electric drill and lay the drill down on a workbench. Cover a portion of the skewer with a piece of sandpaper and run it up and down the length with the drill running at a moderate speed until you get the desired diameter. I've done this for ship masts.

[cMags]

Yea, the bamboo skewers I have were too thick, so I just wrapped a toothpick. I got one axle and pair of wheels done, one more to go then I can close up the car.

[Cami]

Originally Posted by rmks2000

Thanks for the pictures. I have had bad luck getting photo paper to glue properly, and I've tried many different glues and also tried scuffing the gloss. I've binned a couple of models because of it. I'll have to try again on Kodak paper as per Cami's recommendation. Any glue recommendation would be appreciated.

cMags - Your method to build up the axle should work well. Another option is to try bamboo skewers (used for kabobs). The pack that I got from the supermarket has varying thicknesses (poor quality control?). However, if they are all too thick, place one in an electric drill and lay the drill down on a workbench. Cover a portion of the skewer with a piece of sandpaper and run it up and down the length with the drill running at a moderate speed until you get the desired diameter. I've done this for ship masts.

Rmks2000, I use contact cement that I apply in very thin layer on both surface with $0.10 brushes. I prepare many parts and by the time I am done with the sub-assemblies, it is dry enough to join the surfaces together. The good side is that you do not have to hold the parts while it is drying, it is already dry. On the other hand, you have no second chance with contact cement, you must be sure to do it right the first time, otherwise you have to reprint the parts and do it again.

The brush will dry pretty quickly as well and is probably good for about 20-30 minutes if you keep using it, but leave it aside for 2-3 minutes and it is over, you need another one. You need to be prepared before you start, but you are saving a lot of time when you assemble the parts together because it is already dry. It is my personnal technique and it works fine for me. 2 brushes are usually necessary for these models.

Cami