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#22
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Then the type of card/paper, and its thickness, would be of note. Over 2mm thickness and still only 600gsm would be a lightweight less dense cardboard, rather than a denser card like cardstocks or illustration board. So, it would be a lot easier to cut. I use softer Cereal box card for internal formers in aircraft models. I could laminate 4 layers to get close to 2mm thickness. Its easier to cut and it would be no more than 600gsm. I think this is all important information for card modelers. Nice to know how a builder achieves various things and what he uses.
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#23
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Definitely, I learnt most of what I know by reading discussions like this, and various build threads on forums. It's kindof why I like to go into a lot of detail about my methods sometimes... hoping it may help someone else down the track. |
#24
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Speaking of long winded posts, I typed one up 3 days ago but must've forgotten to hit "post".
Not much to report, but this one is officially back underway. I've been going through my parts and drawings, trying to remember what I had planned for my scratch built tracks and seem to be back up to speed, I've done a couple of links, to decide which size lasercut bolts to use, I've decided on the 1.2mm. I haven't figured out how I'm going to attach the links yet, but I think I'll come up with something similar to what's shown in the picture Greg provided. I'm thinking I'll also go all the way for the sake of extra detail and connect them with wire rods etc, instead of using a paper strap as originally planned. I found some old photos on the sd card in my phone, they've survived 3 phone upgrades over the last 5 years. We have a dozer similar to this where I work, I took some photos of it to use as a guide to apply some weathering to a model I never built. Not sure if the dozer is still there, but if it is I'm going to get some more pics. These will come in handy, I'm sure. |
#25
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"I have an idea, I'm going to make fully articulated tracks with individual links, it's going to be awesome".
What was I thinking? So, with thanks to Greg for his photo and a bunch of photos and plans of the real thing, I've figured out how I'm going to do it. These are all hand drawn, after a couple of test builds and some trial and error, I'm ready to dive in to an epic session of cutting tiny parts. I started with a basic concept and drew up a template based on my original idea. After making a few changes to the design, I ended up with a rather busy looking template, but I can use it to cut out 3 different parts, depending what I need. There are different parts for left and right tracks, and for the inner links. All of them can be cut from this same drawing, so to save some time I photocopied it a few times and laminated it onto card. Each track link is made up of 19 parts, I need 80 links, so that's 1520 parts in total I made a little jig to assemble the parts I'll call chain links, not knowing the correct terminology. I'll assemble the chain first, then glue the tread plates to them. A quick test build has confirmed everything fits and flexes as required. It all fits and flexes for now but these have to be painted, so fingers crossed that won't cause any issues, unless I decide to assemble it all first, then paint. I'll cross that bridge when I come to it. |
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This is a formidable project!
Loud, sustained, thunderous, applause! I have enjoyed the discussion, and I am really enjoying the images and narrative of your meticulous track work. Don |
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Glad to be of service. Since I work at the plant where Case builds dozers, let me know if you need any additional information/pictures.
greg
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In dry dock: ? In factory: CWS T-1. In hanger: Fokker triplanes? under construction: ? |
#28
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Interesting approach to the track system. Looks good!
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#29
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Thank you all for the compliments... however, I have hit a slight snag.
The joys of scratchbuilding and designing half in your head and half on paper... I've miscalculated my measurements somewhere and have a minor problem now with scale. I'm not even sure what scale this is in, I originally took the canon model to a print shop and had them enlarge it to a size I'd estimated would give me 1/24 scale or close to it. I can't remember if I had it enlarged to a certain percentage of if I just had it printed on A3 paper to effectively double the original size. Anyhoo, aside from that, I based my measurements for the tread plates on the size of the tread plates dawn on the "paper strap" tracks from the original model. I then designed my chain links based on the size of those treads. I've miscalculated somewhere and now my chain links are too big, although it looks like it works, my tread plates need to overlap more, ie: need to be bigger. The solution? I've put a lot of time and effort into this design so far, it would be a waste to start again, and that would also require much smaller parts, I'm not sure I want to deal with that. So my solution will be to enlarge the whole model, based on the size of my incorrect chain parts. The tread plates will need to be made again, but they were easy compared to the chain. All I have to do now is determine a percentage to enlarge the model by. I have it printed and laminated already, I'm thinking I should just have to scan and enlarge by a certain percentage, reprint and laminate... correct me if I'm wrong. I'm going to start by completing the "chain" for the tracks, then see where to go from there, I may be able to make it work without too much modification but I'll deal with that when I get to it. |
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