#11
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Great car and great start! By any chance, do you have a link where I can purchase this wee beastie? I need a few more memorable older autos for my diorama. This one really fits the bill at 1:100. I am certainly going to follow this thread to the end. (I know; bad joke and been done too many times)
John |
#12
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Looking at the "I have no clue??" parts, to me the larger part will fit into the floor well to show where the gear stick will go and the smaller part is the gear stick.
looking good so far
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Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster, its like having your brain smashed out with a slice of lemon wrapped around a large gold brick |
#13
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Thanks for the comments and interest, fellas. This model is a freebie, John, and can be found herewww.minimodel.cz - Minimodel.cz
Look for modely on the left column, after clicking on it, scroll down to MiB. The MiB model list will open when you pass over it. The Delahaye is the last model on their list. click on it to open it. Model file and a photo is all the way to the right.
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Regards, Don I don't always build models, but when I do... I prefer paper. Keep your scissors sharp, my friends. |
#14
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Don,
Thank you very much for the link. This will really add class to the act. For your kindness, the license plate will be RPSO7. I will follow your build and pick up any advice or pointers that you add before attempting my building effort. John |
#15
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The build is progressing. As designed, the rear body half is intended to overlap the front body half just behind the front door. Assembled this way, the last bit of the chrome strip that runs along the hood side and over the side to the rear fender would be covered. I'm not a fan of overlapping paper anyway, and to do so on this car would be just plain wrong, so I cut away the glue tabs, being careful to preserve those little slivers of chrome trim. Then I affixed internal glue strips so that the rear body half would blend as smoothly with the front half as possible. (photos 1,2). The front half of the chassis panel is also designed to overlap the rear panel. Again, and for the same reason, unacceptable to me. So, I removed the glue tab from the rear chassis panel. This time I had to make a right angle internal glue tab to accommodate the axle/wheel well box. (photos 1,2).
Next it was time to glue on the rear body/axle box assembly.The part turned out to be slightly wider that the front panel. I suspect that the designer actually made the rear body part a little wider so it would overlap the front part if built as intended. I had to make a relief cut down the back to take the stress off the flush joint. I don't know what's going to happen when I try to put the top skin in place (fingers crossed). Anyway, the panels mated up very nicely on the sides, and all that was left to do was to glue the little chrome strips down (photo 3). Then I dry fitted the interior into place only to find that although the back of interior fits perfectly, the front is much narrower than the opening leaving about a 1/16" gap on each side (photo 4). It's not possible to squeeze the sides in because of the curved panel that the dashboard will be glued to (visible in photo 1). Maybe those pieces that have to be laminated to 1mm card come into play here?? Actually, since I'm building this model at double scale, those pieces should probably be laminated to 2mm card.
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Regards, Don I don't always build models, but when I do... I prefer paper. Keep your scissors sharp, my friends. |
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#16
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It's a beauty in spite of the misfit of the driving compartment front end. Most enjoyable to follow along with your build.
Don |
#17
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Another day and a bit more progress. I'm happy to report that I was able to repair the stress cut that I made earlier to facilitate gluing the two body halves together. If I had it to do over again, I would have made a short score and slight mountain fold instead of the cut to provide the little bit of needed "give".
I moved on to the rear fender tops. These are simple parts with saw tooth glue tabs on both sides. They glue directly to the body, following the black fender outline. Be sure to place them so that no white will show when the rear top panel is put in place. I bent the outer tabs on one side just for illustration. The wheels have to be made and installed before the rear fender sides go on. Each wheel is made up of 3 parts: 2 outer pieces, and a long piece of paper that has to be rolled to form the tread and is sandwiched between the two wheel sides. After I made the wheels, I made a plastic rod axle for them to roll on. I glued one wheel to the axle, threaded it through the holes in the axle box, then glued on the other one. I'm looking forward to tomorrow - can't wait to see how it looks with the rear fender sides on.
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Regards, Don I don't always build models, but when I do... I prefer paper. Keep your scissors sharp, my friends. |
#18
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Looking good from here Don. A most enjoyable build.
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This is a great hobby for the retiree - interesting, time-consuming, rewarding - and about as inexpensive a hobby as you can find. Shamelessly stolen from a post by rockpaperscissor |
#19
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1949 Delahaye Jigsaw Puzzles
Don -
I like to work jigsaw puzzles on line - ships, locomotives, airplanes, steam tractors, and motorcars. Just completed this one of a decade later and still beautiful Delahaye. Thought I would share it with you: https://www.jigidi.com/jigsaw-puzzle.../1949-Delahaye My time was 1:19, so I don't appear on the Leader Board. Don (too) |
#20
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Went to Stránka nebyla nalezena – minimodel.cz like they're migrating to a new site...could not find the link... :(
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