#11
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Thanks, birder. Make sure you download more than you think you want, as you might get hooked!
You are kind about the fork gaiters, but I'm not convinced... ------------------------------------------------------------------------ So quickly to the wheels. Well, actually all the fiddling about I have described so far took me over three months off and on, so not that quickly. The wheels come in two versions, "standard" and "special". The standard version has substantially oversize paper spokes, while the special has laced cord, which looks much nicer. In both versions the wheel rim and tyre are divided into three 120° segments plugged together. It didn't take long to decide that I would choose ... neither. I have my own preferred method of lacing up cord (though at my scale it is sewing cotton) spokes, and at the smaller scale it is perfectly possible to construct the rim and tyre as a complete ring rather than segments. I traced off the dimensions and drew new parts to suit, then produced this: The tyre is not 100% satisfactory - the rather jagged outer profile is a bit disappointing - but given that the photographs show it at approximately 3x and 2x actual size it is not quite as bad as it looks. Provided I only take oblique photographs of the finished model it should be acceptable. |
#12
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Good job. I have a BMW with sidecar kit (maybe JSC?) that I've yet to start because I want to make better spokes and wheels. I just have to get off my butt and try it.
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#13
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Quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------- The back wheel is much the same as the front, though here the rather busier tread pattern takes the eye a bit away from the sloppy workmanship. In this case I didn't use the tread pattern from the kit, but cobbled up something closer to the pattern shown in the detail photographs of the original on the Yamaha web site. |
#14
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All the while I was making the wheels I was looking at the front forks, and in particualar the gaiters, and getting less and less satisfied with them. I decided to look at how they would ideally fit together by measuring up the parts and constructing a side view.
The result is on the left. In each corrugation, only the lower half fits to the inner vertical tube, the upper part having a much larger hole and mating with the lower half of the piece above. As a result, even tiny errors in assembly of the two halves lead to magnified wonkiness in the outer rim. Some years ago I made the Serow 225 model from Eastern's Toy-box which had a similar feature, with rather more satisfactory results. The difference there is that the segments all have the same internal diameter, and fit over a rather larger internal sleeve which positions them rather more positively. I decided to take this approach, and redrew things appropriately, as on the right above. The additional sleeve is shown in yellow in this view. I also took the opportunity to even up the spacing and the taper at the bottom end. I think it was worth it, though it was hard to throw away all that work on the originals! At least I was able to salvage the tapered upper sleeves and yokes and reuse them (after the photo was taken). |
#15
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With all the effort put in before to ensure good fit, assembly went well and quickly.
First the engine to the frame, the tank and the carburettor and saddle. |
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#16
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Wow - cutting and shaping those gaiters is almost as repetitive as cutting tank treads and wheels, but definitely worth the effort.
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#17
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Quote:
------------------------------------------------------ Next the back fender and wheel. |
#18
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That's looking splendid - nearly there! I like your spoked wheels - they came out well.
Pity Yamaha did not do more of their older classics....
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The SD40 is 55 now! |
#19
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Quote:
I agree about the older, more bread-and-butter types. I much prefer them to the super-macho machines Yamaha have mostly favoured. ---------------------------------------------------------------- Back to the assembly: The exhaust pipe and muffler. Now combine the front forks and fender add the front wheel, and fit everything to the frame. |
#20
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