#11
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What a nice, clean build. Great photo documentation also. I'm glad I stopped by.
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Regards, Don I don't always build models, but when I do... I prefer paper. Keep your scissors sharp, my friends. |
#12
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Great build. That is a really nice kit. Well done.
Gary
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"Fast is fine, but accuracy is everything" - Wyatt Earp Design Group Alpha https://ecardmodels.com/vendors/design-group-alpha |
#13
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Thanks for all the feedback and support.
Gotham: I am always amazed at the aircraft, trucks, tanks, farm equipment and industrial models on the site that have the realistic look. Weathering will be a challenge for me after I figure out how to assemble the models. I agree - a real working model is the goal. Kevin WS - thanks for the kind words and I hope you get up and running again after that terrible power issue. Rock Paper Scissors: I am glad you enjoyed the photos - I hope to put more builds on the forum. MacSongLi: Nice to meet a fellow Canadian.
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Regards, Peter Stay Happy |
#14
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Nice, clean builded model...I use a 120-150g /m2 paper, only for an info. For small parts 120g/m2, but you have to decidided what a paper (thickness) for you the best is, try, try, try
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#15
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Hello LuPa - greetings from Deep River Canada. I was lucky to have been able to visit Bratislava in 2012 - beautiful city.
I can easily obtain 110 lb (199 g/m2) and 65 lb (176 g/m2) cardstock in my area. I am having trouble sourcing lighter weight cardstock. I have been experimenting with different thickness photo paper for small model pieces and sub assemblies. I will also try using an inkjet printer instead of laser, as most of my folds crack the ink line. I will keep experimenting. Thanks for the feedback
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Regards, Peter Stay Happy |
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#16
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Peter, your laser prints should be fine.
Two things to note to get them right. 1. With a laser printer it is important to use the right setting so the toner is baked properly onto the paper and does not crack. When you set up the print, in print options it gives you the option to set up the input source (usually the by-pass tray if you are using thick paper) AND also an option that relates to PAPER THICKNESS. Lookup a manual online to find the correct settings to use for the paper thickness you are printing. If the above is done properly the machine will then adjust the temperature of the fuser roller so the toner is baked properly into the paper. 2. Something I always do is spray my model sheets with a matt varnish before I start cutting out. Just a couple of "mists" is fine. This also helps to prevent any cracking. Any varnish from a hardware store will generally work fine. If it feels gritty after you have sprayed it on, just rub =the surface lightly with a piece of scrap paper and you will be fine. I have been using lasers for years - with no cracking or splitting issues!
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The SD40 is 55 now! |
#17
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Hello Kevin WS,
Thanks for the tips on using the laser printer. When I get back to the office in the new year, I will try to adjust the settings. I may/or may not have the ability to do that. Some control features are locked. I will also try spraying with matte varnish. My intention will be to print the model on 3 different thicknesses of cardstock and photopaper. I will rebuild the model and see what works best. I will also see about an inexpensive weathering kit from the dollar store and see if I can re-create rust! I wish you a happy new year - I am looking forward to a great 2021.
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Regards, Peter Stay Happy |
#18
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Wow, very clean build and looks like the Spit in the background is coming along nicely. Canon kits were some of my first also. Keep up the great work and have a joy filled New Year.
Regards, John |
#19
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...the notices from Kevin WS about the varnish are well, I´m using these too.
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#20
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Quote:
thank you, all the best to the 2021 |
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