#11
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CT - Thanks for doing this!
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#12
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Way to go, CT!
This is great! Thanks for showing us the way, and looking forward to more! Cheers! Jim |
#13
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Thanks guys.
One of the interesting things about the Texas is that it had a glasis or angled shield fore and aft of the casemate. This raised the center line of the model by two feet and angling off to the deck. Most ironclads did not have this, but the proposed double ender at Richmond, as well as the CSS Virginia II did. So we will fit this onto the Texas. Start by making a guide line on the Back side of the model in the casement, two feet off the deck. Also, mark the ending of the angled plate fore and aft as per the drawing. The I draw the faces of the angles (in red) and use a stitching pattern to fill in the edging because of the curve of the deck. I repeat the process on the front.
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My models are available here http://ecardmodels.com/index.php?manufacturers_id=62 |
#14
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OK, now I took the eraser button and while holding down the "shift" button I clicked on those extra lines on the angled shield. This hides those lines from view. :D
__________________
My models are available here http://ecardmodels.com/index.php?manufacturers_id=62 |
#15
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OK, now highlight the two angled faces fore and aft and click the hide button as in picture 18. Then the deck below is visable and we can make the hatches. Draw in the 8 by 8 foot hatches (colored in wood tone in pic19). Then we once again get a back view and orbit the model so we can pull up our hatches using the push pull button, two feet should be about right. Then click the un-hide all button. You will notice those other stitching lines are back. I used the "shift-erase" combination to make them disappear again. Now we need to intersect these new hatchways with the model. I highlight the whole model and then click the "intersect with model" button. See pictures!:D
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My models are available here http://ecardmodels.com/index.php?manufacturers_id=62 |
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#16
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This is great!! please don't abandon us like so may have in the past without finishing!
PLEASE!!
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"Remember The Pulp will always be with you" :D |
#17
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No worries, this will be done soon.
Pic 23 shows our model with some basic recoloring. Now for the pilothouses. Pic 24 shows the basic repeat of the casemate design, only smaller. I mad the rectangle that corresponded to the drawing and used the push-pull to pull it up 2 feet, then I used the compass to mark the 35 degree angle, then I will use the follow "me button" to put the angles on. pic 25 shows the model with the stack added and the hatches, as well as the pilothouses. I used the basic tools already talked about. Now for those pesky gun ports...
__________________
My models are available here http://ecardmodels.com/index.php?manufacturers_id=62 |
#18
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Thanks a lot for this tutorial. Have been wanting to make models of the USS Benton and USS Chickasaw. Hopefully this will give me a workable method.
Now if only Knife would post the iron images he's been using for textures... |
#19
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No problems, they're right here. Have fun!
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#20
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Oh man! Thank you very much!
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