CSS Selma gunboat, 1/250 scale - Page 4

**ct ertz** · #31 05-23-2012, 06:05 PM

Awesome stuff! Thanks Jim.
CT

**sporticus** · #32 05-23-2012, 07:51 PM

Interesting stuff indeed. I also agree with what you said about Charcoal instead of black. Works much better!

**sporticus** · #33 05-24-2012, 04:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimkrauzlis

Uyraell, my friend, I came across this source which appears to be a contemporary source discussing how the guns of the era were worked, including the pivot guns:
http://www.gutenberg.org/files/19058...-h/19058-h.htm

Enjoy!

Cheers!
Jim

Great stuff. I thought the bit about moving the gun to the other end of the ship and then having two on one end was very interesting. It's got some great diagrams of carriages. I don't suppose wither of you have any info on the dimensions of any of the various barrels?

**rebelatsea** · #34 05-24-2012, 07:30 AM

Uyraell and Jim,

So far as I know the CSN did not use geared tracks, In fact I don't think any navy at this time used anything other than roller paths bolted to the deck .I believe that geared
training first came into use with the vavasseur carriages much later ( now someone will torpedo me !)

**Uyraell** · #35 05-24-2012, 12:31 PM

Rebelatsea, and Jim, Thank you both for answering the question I had.
And Jim, Thank you for that truly fine resource, of which I enjoyed reading the relevant parts.

It was perhaps an odd question for me to have asked, yet the thought itself was logical.

I'm certainly enjoying seeing this design evolve, and the discussions this and various other designs have involved regarding ships and technology of the ACW era.

Kind and Respectful Regards my friends, Uyraell.

**ct ertz** · #36 05-28-2012, 09:07 PM

OK, guys. I am really going to try and have this guy ready for a test build before next Monday when I start my next chemo session. I have the deck and deck house done and the guns, underside of the decking and many other parts done as well. Just the hull left from the waterline up. Then off to Gimp for the lay out.

So, *IF* I actually get it done by the week end can I get anyone to build it for me?

**sporticus** · #37 05-29-2012, 04:15 AM

Would love to volunteer for a test build, but my life is taking up too much of my hobby time at the moment! If I was able to do a test build in 1:150 I would, but that won't help you as you need a test build in the right scale to check fit and buildability!

I hope in the future I will be in a quieter period and I can volunteer!!

**ct ertz** · #38 05-29-2012, 10:58 AM

You and me both buddy! I would love to do some builds again. I still have a mostly finished rescue truck that needs wheels! But I am finding out my physical limitations as well as my lack of space for building. One day soon I hope. I am not a great builder of models but I do enjoy it.

So I have an issue with the Selma's deck. It iis a foot thick, and has that overhang next to the paddles. So I have a top deck and a bottom deck with the siding that wraps around all good sofar. However, even if I doubled both the upper and lower deck, it will be to thin. And spacers or "ribs" at this scale would be a real pain. I wounder what mm card is out their that would allow for a foot thickness at 1/250 scale? If you know me you know my math sucks and I do not do metric well. Any ideas?
CT

**ct ertz** · #39 05-29-2012, 11:23 AM

Sorry, I meant the deck overhang is two feet thick! I wonder if formers that thin would work on this model. Wow, what a pain though. I will see,
CT

**sporticus** · #40 05-29-2012, 11:25 AM

Well you may not be a great builder but you're a great designer!

Well i have to work in metric. 1 foot = 304.8 mm

304.8 divided by 250 = 1.2192

So 1.2mm card overall thickness is pretty good. The card i use in my printer is about 0.3mm thick so four of those would do.

Guess it depends on what thickness you allow for your card.

Hope this helps!