#1
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CSS Tennessee
Here's my start on another one. I stumbled on to a good three way plan for her so I had to do it! It will be a while before it's ready but it's a start. It is the CSS Tennessee, one of the few ironclads that had an armored deck. Unfortunately they left the rudder chains exposed in trenches at deck level. These where hidden with boiler plate but the Union's Monitor's big guns still found them. Unable to maneuver, and ganged up on 4 to 1 or more, she surrendered at Mobile bay. The Yanks knew a good thing when they saw one, and quickly put the ironclad to work as a blockade, the USS Tennessee.
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#2
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Still working on the Tennessee. It will be another water line model in about the same 1:250 scale as my others. Limited inside but it will have some good deck details. I will get some screen shots up soon.
CT |
#3
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Progress on the Tennessee! Note the boiler plate covers for the rudder chains. This model is going to have small parts, as I am including the cleats and tie downs. Not also the odd sliding gun ports on the center broadside guns. I am making them so the may be glued on right side up or upside down to close or open the gun ports.:D
CT |
#4
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Your ironclads are becomming one of the nice halmarks of this site. I'm enjoying watching you do your work.
Mike |
#5
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Looking good, CT! Stephen Mallory would've been overjoyed to get you on his staff!
Wyvern |
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#6
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CT Ertz sent over the initial versions of the CSS Tennessee paper pattern.
Here's a shot of one page of the parts. The ship is listed at 209 feet long in the references I could find. Which comes to around 253.5mm to 254mm in 1/250 scale, using this this formula: 209 x 304.8 (the number of milimeters in a foot) divided by 250 = 253.5963mm ^^^Found that nifty formula in Roger Pearson's reply to Re-Scaling Card Models message thread on scale-models.co.uk: Re-Scaling Card Models - Scale Models Anyway, to get the waterline-hull-base printed out near 253.5mm I had to use the settings: print at 98%, "crop to fit". The waterline hull came out to 253mm. Bam! Pretty much dead-on for 1/250 scale. Don't have any bristol board, but will be laminating the hull formers to cardboard from a box of crackers. More pictures to follow... Last edited by Torakaze-222; 09-03-2009 at 10:43 PM. Reason: attach a picture to illustrate what I was saying |
#7
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I m glad the PDF came through OK...Someone has the Albemarle started in the back ground!
I use pop tart boxes and Mac & Cheese boxes myself. Just a heads up. I hd forgot to take into account the thickness of the base and card when designing the CSS Fredericksburg and the skirting/hull sides came out too short. I have fixed the design on that madel but I can not rember if I also shortd the ships sides on this model or not. If I did, let me know and I will fix the design. The Tennessee has straight lines at the waterline so simple extending the hull with thin cuts of red card would be a quick fix if I did short it. That would save on printer ink! The knuckle on these ships was supposed to be under the water line by a few feet, so if a red waterline was painted and the ship was running high do to lack of coal then the red skirting would look right. Any how, let me know how it gose! I am still working on the instructions for the pilot house armored top as well. It seems that the pilot house top was open with armored plate laid like fins across the top. This would let the free flow of air go through but make it almost imposable for small arms fire to come in. The parts are their along with a diagram but no instructions yet. Thanks, I look forward to seeing more pictures, CT |
#8
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I got a couple more pieces corrected on the design and some mor spelling corrected. Getting closer...
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#9
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Was struggling to get my Nikon Coolpix 4300 to manually focus, finally gave up and switched it to autofocus.
So, the build is moving forward again. Here's a pic of the hull pieces laminated to some scavenged cardboard. The next pic shows the keel and base cut out. The third and fourth pics show the keel and ribs all glued to the base. No problems at all so far. Only mistake was on my part. The pilsbury cardboard box I laminated the sheet to, is more warped than I'd first thought. Hopefully gluing the deck on top of it will straighten it up. Last edited by Torakaze-222; 09-06-2009 at 11:29 PM. |
#10
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Looks good. I sometimes glue the base lightly to a piece of glass until the deck is done. I did this with my Fredericksburg but never sealed it, and when we were cooking the other day the house got a bit humid and the boat warped again...the center raised up 1/4 inch, a lot on such a small model. Oh well. My other waterline models came out good gluing them first to a pice of gladd then when the model was done I glued them to a display base, so no waping there.
CT |
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