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  #21  
Old 07-06-2011, 05:19 PM
Peter Epps Peter Epps is offline
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1/64 works for me.
Can't wait.
When is it gonna be done?
Peter
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  #22  
Old 07-06-2011, 05:29 PM
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airdave airdave is offline
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haha okay I laughed

please feel free to whine, yell, scream and stamp your feet
if you don't agree with this, but I am making an executive decision
and starting the work at 1/64 scale.

and, since I already have a Hull pattern, I need to sort out the separation of parts.

Basically I have to chop individual parts into smaller components
that can be seamed back together before assembly.
Question is, where exactly would you prefer those seams?

it would be easy enough to chop everything in half,
but there might be a better way to cut things...any ideas?

I have attached two diagrams...
one shows the five part Hull assembly
and the second shows the relative size of the deck against the Letter size page.
Attached Thumbnails
A PT Boat from AirDave?-pt-boat-diagram.jpg   A PT Boat from AirDave?-pt-boat-diagram-2.jpg  
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  #23  
Old 07-06-2011, 06:01 PM
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silveroxide silveroxide is offline
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I would opt for the 1/35 scale because of the abundance of detailed personnel, but 1/64 scale is alright by me as well,
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  #24  
Old 07-06-2011, 06:26 PM
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airdave airdave is offline
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haha now I'm thinking 1/84 looks good
and I don't have to split the Hull!

LOL

Listen...I appreciate everyone's help and input.
I could have just puttered away at this quietly by myself
but I figured it would be more fun to get others involved.

Who knows, I could be out of my depth and this project could screech to a halt.
I don't mind admitting that.
At this point I don't know if I can design a Boat kit...
but it seems like a fun idea and I'm willing to give it a try.

With the support of you guysit should go a lot easier.
So...thanks
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  #25  
Old 07-06-2011, 08:11 PM
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Miles Linnabery Miles Linnabery is offline
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Dear Airdave:
Would going with 8 1/2" x 14" paper format help the spliting problem. I've been getting 11" x 17" cardstock and cutting down to print the european models that I do not wish to print at 83% size. I still say bigger is better.
Thanks so much for doing this,
MILES
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  #26  
Old 07-06-2011, 09:28 PM
Zathros Zathros is offline
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I have a question. I just made a picture in Adobe CS3. It was 8.5 inches by 17 inches long. I then ran it through my Epson NX420 printer (this is a really good cheap printer). I selected "user defined" and it printed the picture (which was a black line, less than 17 inches long. That seems to indicate, that a lot of printers will print longer than 11 inch pictures so long as the picture you are printing has that as it's dimensions, and you match it in the user interface. The option has never come up until I had a picture stating it was 8.5 X 17 inches long. This would mean, maybe, the average person could just buy some 13" x 17" inch cardstock, and cut it to 8.5" widths. The P.T. boat could have the desired size you make it without having to cut the hull, and the builder would define this in their printer and be able to make the Hull. Maybe people should try this, to see if it works. It could be done by taping paper to that length and using a picture that has that dimensions. I have attached what I used as a test tool. It is 8.5 by 17" in length. Might work and solve some issues. I've tried it a couple of times, it works on Epsons anyways.
Attached Thumbnails
A PT Boat from AirDave?-long.jpg  
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  #27  
Old 07-06-2011, 09:54 PM
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airdave airdave is offline
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Using variable printing lengths is an option for some.
Using trimmed down sheets of cardstock is possible aswell.

There are many ways to get larger prints of larger models,
but the general Digital Model consumer is looking for standard
print models that aren't going to require these kinds of inventive adjustments.

I have to stick to our standards, and just like the preprinted kits,
if it means cutting up panels into smaller parts, thats what I will have to do.

I just fiddled around with the small Hull I already built.
Its a nice size model at about 9.5" in length.
I'd love to stick with it and keep the Hull parts fitting on one sheet.

But I am already imagining the the small parts required to build the
deck Guns and other details, and I am not comfortable with that.

The boat will have to go to 1/64...and on standard Letter size pages.
(The advantage to letter size is with a slightly increased margin the page will still
print, without adjustment, on to A4 paper (the more common paper size))
.

All I need to work out, is the sectioning of the Hull panels.

(I have already decided that I will section the deck plate after locating
all the deck components...maybe I can hide the seam under certain structures.)

Heres three options for cutting parts...
A PT Boat from AirDave?-pt-boat-cut-options.jpg
any of these work, or any better ideas?
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Last edited by airdave; 07-06-2011 at 10:08 PM.
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  #28  
Old 07-06-2011, 10:26 PM
Zathros Zathros is offline
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If this is a .pdf, how hard would it be to include a page for a person to use that option? This could be done with a multi-level .pdf, or, by just adding a page with a paragraph? A 20" P.T. Boat, it's never been done! How awesome would that be!
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  #29  
Old 07-06-2011, 11:09 PM
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airdave airdave is offline
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Zathros, I'm not going to try to produce two models or elaborate PDFs or whatever.
I've met modellers who can barely handle normal PDFs!
I don't know how hard it is to create multi-level PDFs, because I am not gonna try.

1/64 scale PT Boat will be 15" long.
Thats still the biggest paper PT boat out there.

can we move on now?
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  #30  
Old 07-07-2011, 01:26 AM
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Uyraell Uyraell is offline
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My personal preference would be the 1:64 scale, and even then, it would be the largest model (in terms of the space it takes to display) I own.
Regarding splitting into sections, the best method I can think of, having in mind the hull and superstructure, is to have it built as a central core, capped with stern and bow respectively.
Ie.
_________________12_______________________4_______ ________________
|Stern & Rudders etc | Main hull & superstructure | Bow & guns, anchors etc./

In that way the builder starts from the middle and works outwards fore and aft.
Yes, it means 2 seams through the hull at approximately Frames 4 and 12, but that itself is a minor issue, because the seams would be edge painted and filled or burnished in any case, and therefore made almost invisible.
Which leaves only the underhull to consider.
That is not complicated: Propshafts, Rudders, Skegs where fitted, Strakes where fitted.
In many cases boats left the shipyard without the skegs and strakes, so for simplicity's sake they can (and imho should) be omitted.

For what it's worth, the above are my thoughts and considerations, and therefore my humbly offered suggestion.

Kind and Respectful Regards AirDave, Uyraell.
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